Steamed Fish with Fermented Black Bean Sauce (豉汁蒸鱼, chǐ zhī zhēng yú)
A whole freshwater fish steamed, topped with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallion, finished with a drizzle of hot oil. Tender flesh, deep savory juices: the centerpiece of a celebratory meal.
A whole freshwater fish steamed, topped with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallion, finished with a drizzle of hot oil. Tender flesh, deep savory juices: the centerpiece of a celebratory meal.
When a large plate of characters is finally printed clean, without a smudge, I allow myself a fish — it's a feast day at my table. I choose it live at the river market, I clean it, and I lay it whole on the plate as I would lay my type in the iron frame: flat, nothing sticking out. On top, crushed black beans, ginger in threads, and I pour a ladle of smoking oil that wakes everything with a sizzle. The steam does the rest, gentle and patient; don't overcook it, friend, its flesh must stay tender like fresh clay.
- •Whole freshwater fish (carp, perch) — one, gutted (centerpiece)
- •Fermented black beans (douchi) — a good pinch (salty umami)
- •Fresh ginger — one piece (aroma, deodorizer)
- •Scallion — a few stalks (freshness)
- •Rice wine — a dash (deodorizer)
- •Fermented soybean paste (jiàng) — a little (seasoning)
Steamed Fish with Fermented Black Bean Sauce (豉汁蒸鱼, chǐ zhī zhēng yú)
A whole freshwater fish steamed, topped with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallion, finished with a drizzle of hot oil. Tender flesh, deep savory juices: the centerpiece of a celebratory meal.
Why this dish? Fish only occasionally entered an artisan's bowl — it was a festive dish. Bi Sheng lived near the Yangtze, around Zhenjiang and its Mengxi garden; a whole river fish steamed to perfection honored a great occasion, a New Year, a completed commission.
When a large plate of characters is finally printed clean, without a smudge, I allow myself a fish — it's a feast day at my table. I choose it live at the river market, I clean it, and I lay it whole on the plate as I would lay my type in the iron frame: flat, nothing sticking out. On top, crushed black beans, ginger in threads, and I pour a ladle of smoking oil that wakes everything with a sizzle. The steam does the rest, gentle and patient; don't overcook it, friend, its flesh must stay tender like fresh clay.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole freshwater fish (carp, perch) — one, gutted (centerpiece)
- Fermented black beans (douchi) — a good pinch (salty umami)
- Fresh ginger — one piece (aroma, deodorizer)
- Scallion — a few stalks (freshness)
- Rice wine — a dash (deodorizer)
- Fermented soybean paste (jiàng) — a little (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole white fish (sea bass, bream, or thick fillets) — 1 (600–800 g) (centerpiece)
- Fermented black beans (douchi), rinsed — 2 tbsp, crushed (salty umami)
- Fresh ginger — 1 piece (4 cm), cut into fine matchsticks (aroma)
- Scallion (green and white parts) — 3 stalks, julienned (freshness)
- Shaoxing rice wine — 1 tbsp (deodorizer)
- Light soy sauce — 1 tbsp (seasoning)
- Neutral oil — 2 tbsp (final hot oil)
Method
- Score the fish with a few diagonal slashes on each side, drizzle with rice wine, and let rest for 10 minutes.
- Tuck half the ginger under and inside the fish, place it on a heatproof plate.
- Sprinkle with crushed black beans and remaining ginger, steam over high heat for 10–12 minutes (depending on thickness), until the flesh flakes easily.
- Discard any released liquid, drizzle with soy sauce, and cover with scallion julienne.
- Heat the oil in a small pan until smoking and pour it sizzling over the scallion. Serve immediately, at the center of the table.
How it was made : Steaming (蒸) is one of the oldest and noblest Chinese techniques, fuel-efficient and preserving freshness. The markets of Bianjing described in the *Dongjing Meng Hua Lu* teemed with live fish sold in water buckets; jiàng (fermented soybean paste) served as seasoning before liquid soy sauce became widespread.
The contemporary twist : Present the fish on a long dark slate, the scallion julienne still sizzling with oil, and call it "the successful print fish" — shared when a project is completed.
Sources : Meng Yuanlao, Dongjing Meng Hua Lu (东京梦华录), c. 1147 — fish markets of Bianjing · Lin Hong, Shanjia Qinggong (山家清供), Southern Song, c. 1241 — literati recipes for steamed dishes
Bi Sheng · Charactorium