Zabaione al Marsala — frothy egg yolk cream
An airy, warm cream, obtained by whisking egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala over a bain-marie until tripled in volume. Comforting, sweet, fortifying.
An airy, warm cream, obtained by whisking egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala over a bain-marie until tripled in volume. Comforting, sweet, fortifying.
When I was a child and a cold kept me in bed, they would make me a hot zabaione, and I assure you it was worth all the syrups: three yolks, sugar, a finger of Marsala, beaten until the cream swells and turns blond. The secret is in the wrist — you must whisk without stopping over simmering water, never boiling, otherwise the egg curdles and all is lost. I have kept all my life this trust in the egg, that little cell where life is ready to hatch. Drink it warm, by the spoon or in a cup: it is a remedy that tastes of happiness.
- •Fresh egg yolks — one per person (frothy base)
- •Sugar — one spoonful per yolk (sweetness)
- •Marsala wine (or Moscato) — half an eggshell per yolk (flavor, fortifier)
Zabaione al Marsala — frothy egg yolk cream
An airy, warm cream, obtained by whisking egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala over a bain-marie until tripled in volume. Comforting, sweet, fortifying.
Why this dish? Zabaione was long served to convalescents, children, and the elderly as a strengthening tonic — beaten eggs, sugar, and sweet wine. For Rita, who remained active and alert past a hundred years and considered the egg a precious food, this Piedmontese gourmet remedy is symbolic.
When I was a child and a cold kept me in bed, they would make me a hot zabaione, and I assure you it was worth all the syrups: three yolks, sugar, a finger of Marsala, beaten until the cream swells and turns blond. The secret is in the wrist — you must whisk without stopping over simmering water, never boiling, otherwise the egg curdles and all is lost. I have kept all my life this trust in the egg, that little cell where life is ready to hatch. Drink it warm, by the spoon or in a cup: it is a remedy that tastes of happiness.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh egg yolks — one per person (frothy base)
- Sugar — one spoonful per yolk (sweetness)
- Marsala wine (or Moscato) — half an eggshell per yolk (flavor, fortifier)
Ingredients
- Egg yolks — 4 (frothy base)
- Sugar — 4 tbsp (60 g) (sweetness)
- Sweet Marsala — 60 ml (flavor, fortifier)
- Ladyfingers or amaretti — a few (for dipping (optional))
Method
- In a bowl, whisk the yolks and sugar until the mixture turns pale.
- Place the bowl over a bain-marie of simmering water (no direct contact or boiling).
- Add the Marsala and whisk continuously for 8 to 10 minutes: the cream foams, thickens, and triples in volume.
- Remove as soon as it coats the spoon and remains airy; never let it boil.
- Pour warm into cups or glasses, serve with amaretti for dipping.
How it was made : A Turin specialty (attributed to San Bernardino da Siena or a Captain Baylon), zabaione was beaten by hand over a bain-marie, by the warmth of the hearth. It was given as a restorative to the sick and to newlyweds — a sweet "tonic" before the age of vitamins.
The contemporary twist : Served cold as a semifreddo, or poured warm over strawberries and passed under the grill for a few seconds for a glossy gratin effect.
Rita Levi-Montalcini · Charactorium