flipSweet Potato Pie
Sweet Potato Pie
Why this dish? Sweet potato pie is the iconic dessert of African American holidays, present at big family gatherings and Thanksgiving. Comforting and spiced, it closes the Sunday table in which Toni Morrison grew up.
A smooth sweet potato custard, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, in a buttery crust. Sweeter and silkier than pumpkin pie.
We knew sweet potatoes better than anyone, and they made our pie — not pumpkin, like the neighbors'. We'd bake them until they were sweet on their own, then mash them with a little nutmeg, cinnamon, a cloud of milk. That was the slice we saved for the end, when voices lowered around the table and each of us, full, lingered a little longer, because we didn't want Sunday to end.
- •Sweet potatoes — a few (filling)
- •Sugar — a good measure (sweetness)
- •Butter — a lump (richness)
- •Eggs — two (binder)
- •Milk — a little (creaminess)
- •Cinnamon, nutmeg — to taste (spices)
- •Shortcrust pastry — one crust (crust)
Sweet Potato Pie
A smooth sweet potato custard, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, in a buttery crust. Sweeter and silkier than pumpkin pie.
Why this dish? Sweet potato pie is the iconic dessert of African American holidays, present at big family gatherings and Thanksgiving. Comforting and spiced, it closes the Sunday table in which Toni Morrison grew up.
We knew sweet potatoes better than anyone, and they made our pie — not pumpkin, like the neighbors'. We'd bake them until they were sweet on their own, then mash them with a little nutmeg, cinnamon, a cloud of milk. That was the slice we saved for the end, when voices lowered around the table and each of us, full, lingered a little longer, because we didn't want Sunday to end.
Ingredients (period version)
- Sweet potatoes — a few (filling)
- Sugar — a good measure (sweetness)
- Butter — a lump (richness)
- Eggs — two (binder)
- Milk — a little (creaminess)
- Cinnamon, nutmeg — to taste (spices)
- Shortcrust pastry — one crust (crust)
Ingredients
- Sweet potatoes — 600 g (cooked and mashed) (filling)
- Brown sugar — 150 g (sweetness)
- Melted butter — 60 g (richness)
- Eggs — 2 (binder)
- Evaporated milk or cream — 150 ml (creaminess)
- Cinnamon — 1 tsp (spice)
- Ground nutmeg and ginger — 1/2 tsp (spices)
- Vanilla extract — 1 tsp (flavor)
- Shortcrust pie crust — 1 (crust)
Method
- Cook sweet potatoes (baked or boiled) until tender, peel and mash into a smooth puree.
- Mix warm puree with butter, sugar, spices, and vanilla.
- Beat in eggs, then milk, until a smooth custard.
- Pour into pie crust and bake at 180°C (350°F) about 45 minutes, until center is just set.
- Cool completely before serving, plain or with a dollop of whipped cream.
How it was made : Sweet potatoes, abundant in the South, replaced the yams of West Africa to which they were similar. Baked in embers, then sweetened and spiced, they became the base for a festive pie, a distinct marker of identity from the pumpkin pie of white tables.
The contemporary twist : A fine pinch of sea salt and a splash of bourbon in the filling for a deeper, adults-only version.
Sources : Adrian Miller, Soul Food (2013) · Jessica B. Harris, High on the Hog (2011)
Toni Morrison · Charactorium
