flipRoman-Style Roast Suckling Lamb with Rosemary and Anchovies
Roman-Style Roast Suckling Lamb with Rosemary and Anchovies
Why this dish? When a commission was paid — a vault at the Casino dell'Aurora, a room at the Quirinal — they celebrated at the bottega. Roast suckling lamb, the meat of Easter and banquets, was the accessible luxury that Tassi could offer his boys on payday.
Pieces of suckling lamb browned in a pan then simmered with garlic, rosemary, vinegar, and melted anchovies: the famous "alla cacciatora" seasoning that turns a simple meat into a festive dish, salty and lifted by a tangy note.
The day the cardinal finally settles his bill, we don't eat chickpeas, by all the saints! We go to the butcher to get a suckling lamb, the tenderest, and we sear it until it sings in the fat. Garlic, rosemary, a cloud of vinegar, and — my secret — a few salted anchovies that melt into the sauce without being seen. My apprentices licked their fingers and swore I painted better with a full belly. They weren't wrong.
- •Suckling lamb — in pieces, for the table (festive meat)
- •Garlic — several cloves (aromatic)
- •Rosemary and sage — a few sprigs (flavor)
- •Salted anchovies — a few (melted umami)
- •Vinegar — a splash (acidity)
- •Olive oil and lard — as needed (cooking)
- •White wine — a glass (moistening)
Roman-Style Roast Suckling Lamb with Rosemary and Anchovies
Pieces of suckling lamb browned in a pan then simmered with garlic, rosemary, vinegar, and melted anchovies: the famous "alla cacciatora" seasoning that turns a simple meat into a festive dish, salty and lifted by a tangy note.
Why this dish? When a commission was paid — a vault at the Casino dell'Aurora, a room at the Quirinal — they celebrated at the bottega. Roast suckling lamb, the meat of Easter and banquets, was the accessible luxury that Tassi could offer his boys on payday.
The day the cardinal finally settles his bill, we don't eat chickpeas, by all the saints! We go to the butcher to get a suckling lamb, the tenderest, and we sear it until it sings in the fat. Garlic, rosemary, a cloud of vinegar, and — my secret — a few salted anchovies that melt into the sauce without being seen. My apprentices licked their fingers and swore I painted better with a full belly. They weren't wrong.
Ingredients (period version)
- Suckling lamb — in pieces, for the table (festive meat)
- Garlic — several cloves (aromatic)
- Rosemary and sage — a few sprigs (flavor)
- Salted anchovies — a few (melted umami)
- Vinegar — a splash (acidity)
- Olive oil and lard — as needed (cooking)
- White wine — a glass (moistening)
Ingredients
- Lamb shoulder and neck — 1.2 kg in pieces (festive meat)
- Garlic — 4 cloves (aromatic)
- Rosemary and sage — 2 sprigs each (flavor)
- Salted anchovy fillets — 4 (melted umami)
- White wine vinegar — 3 tablespoons (acidity)
- Olive oil — 3 tablespoons (cooking)
- Dry white wine — 1 glass (150 ml) (moistening)
- Salt and pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Brown the lamb pieces on all sides in hot oil, in batches, then lightly salt.
- Add the crushed garlic, rosemary, and sage, let scent for one minute.
- Deglaze with white wine, cover, and simmer over low heat for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, until the meat is tender.
- Meanwhile, mash the anchovies with the vinegar to form a sauce.
- At the end of cooking, pour in the anchovy-vinegar mixture, shake the pot, let reduce for 5 minutes, and serve immediately with bread for sopping.
How it was made : Roast lamb (abbacchio) was the festive meat of Rome, linked to Easter and banquets. The "alla cacciatora" seasoning — garlic, rosemary, vinegar, and melted anchovies — is documented in ancient Roman kitchens: salted anchovies provided a deep umami base without anyone guessing their presence, a technique inherited from ancient garum.
The contemporary twist : A final grating of lemon zest and some pan-fried potatoes (introduced much later) transform the dish into a modern Sunday version — to be reserved outside strict historical reconstruction.
Agostino Tassi · Charactorium
