Alexandre Dumas at the table

In 19th-century Paris, the grand dinner gradually abandoned service à la française (all dishes on the table at once) for service à la russe: dishes parade one after another, brought by servants in order — soup, relevé, entrées, roast, salad, sweet entremets, then dessert and coffee. At Dumas's table, a talkative and gourmand host, the roast and salad were the moments when the master of the house would gladly rise to officiate himself.