flipGreen Mango Atchar
Green Mango Atchar
Why this dish? Atchar, green mangoes preserved in oil, salt and spices, is prepared in season and keeps for months. In a house where the table was always open, this jar of condiment always at hand embodies the art of entertaining without notice — a spoonful instantly lifts any simple meal.
Green mango strips salted then steeped in oil perfumed with fenugreek, mustard and chili, which soften and mellow over the days.
When the green mangoes arrive, hard and sour, that's the moment! We cut them, salt them, let them release their water in the sun for a day or two, then drown them in oil and spices. A good atchar, you have to know how to wait for it: the longer the jar ages on the shelf, the better it becomes. A single spoonful on plain rice, and the humblest meal becomes a feast. I always kept an extra jar — you never know who might knock at the door.
- •Green mangoes (hard) — several (base)
- •Coarse salt — generously (salting and preservation)
- •Mustard seeds and fenugreek — to taste (preserving spices)
- •Dried chili — to taste (heat)
- •Turmeric — a pinch (colour)
- •Oil — to cover (preservation)
Green Mango Atchar
Green mango strips salted then steeped in oil perfumed with fenugreek, mustard and chili, which soften and mellow over the days.
Why this dish? Atchar, green mangoes preserved in oil, salt and spices, is prepared in season and keeps for months. In a house where the table was always open, this jar of condiment always at hand embodies the art of entertaining without notice — a spoonful instantly lifts any simple meal.
When the green mangoes arrive, hard and sour, that's the moment! We cut them, salt them, let them release their water in the sun for a day or two, then drown them in oil and spices. A good atchar, you have to know how to wait for it: the longer the jar ages on the shelf, the better it becomes. A single spoonful on plain rice, and the humblest meal becomes a feast. I always kept an extra jar — you never know who might knock at the door.
Ingredients (period version)
- Green mangoes (hard) — several (base)
- Coarse salt — generously (salting and preservation)
- Mustard seeds and fenugreek — to taste (preserving spices)
- Dried chili — to taste (heat)
- Turmeric — a pinch (colour)
- Oil — to cover (preservation)
Ingredients
- Firm green mangoes — 4 (base)
- Coarse salt — 3 tbsp (salting)
- Mustard seeds — 2 tbsp (spice)
- Fenugreek seeds — 1 tsp (aromatic bitterness)
- Red chili powder — 2 tbsp (to taste) (heat)
- Turmeric — 1 tsp (colour)
- Neutral or sunflower oil — 200 ml approx (preservation)
Method
- Wash and dry the mangoes thoroughly (any moisture will cause mould). Cut into strips or small dice with the skin on.
- Mix with coarse salt and let drain for 1-2 days in a covered bowl, stirring, until they release their water.
- Drain and let the pieces dry for a few hours (ideally in the sun).
- Lightly dry-roast mustard and fenugreek seeds, then coarsely crush.
- Mix mangoes with the spices, chili and turmeric, pack tightly into a clean, dry jar.
- Cover completely with oil, seal, and let mature at least one week away from light before tasting. Always use a dry spoon.
How it was made : Atchar (from the same word as 'achaar') is a pillar of Indian cuisines, adapted in South Africa with local mangoes. Before refrigeration, it was an essential way to preserve seasonal fruit and have a tangy condiment all year. Sun-drying and the covering layer of oil prevented mould.
The contemporary twist : A spoonful of atchar in a sandwich or on an egg — a nod to the famous South African 'gatsby'.
Sources : Zuleikha Mayat, Indian Delights, Women's Cultural Group, Durban, 1961
Amina Cachalia · Charactorium
