At the Acehnese table, there is no starter, main course, or dessert: a large mound of white rice (bu) is surrounded by several kuah, long-spiced curries accompanied by fish, halal meat, or vegetables. People eat with the right hand, sitting on a mat, often together during kenduri (shared meals). Aceh, the "Veranda of Mecca," received through its ports the spices of India and the Arab world: its cuisine is one of the most fragrant in the archipelago.

A dark paste obtained by pressing, fermenting, and drying coconut flesh. It is the umami soul of Acehnese cuisine, found nowhere else in Indonesia: a mark of preservation and flavor that turned a handful of forest vegetables into a nourishing meal.