Chicken in Oenogarum with Honey and Coriander
Poultry braised in oenogarum, that signature sauce of wine, garum, and honey, perfumed with coriander and lovage. The typical Roman sweet-savory contrast that still surprises today.
Poultry braised in oenogarum, that signature sauce of wine, garum, and honey, perfumed with coriander and lovage. The typical Roman sweet-savory contrast that still surprises today.
When Antony entertained his followers, I left nothing to chance, not even the sauce. We brown the chicken, then drown it in wine, garum, and a little honey—for in Rome, sweet and salty court each other in every bite. A dash of coriander, a leaf of lovage, and we pepper it generously, as befits those who can afford the East. Serve hot: a well-fed guest votes better.
- •Young chicken — 1 (meat)
- •Garum — a splash (salty umami (signature))
- •Cut white wine — a cup (sauce base)
- •Honey — a spoonful (sweetness)
- •Coriander, lovage, oregano — to taste (aromatics)
- •Long pepper — generously (luxury spice)
Chicken in Oenogarum with Honey and Coriander
Poultry braised in oenogarum, that signature sauce of wine, garum, and honey, perfumed with coriander and lovage. The typical Roman sweet-savory contrast that still surprises today.
Why this dish? As the wife of Mark Antony, one of the three masters of Rome, Fulvia entertained senators and generals at her table. A fine bird simmered in a sauce of garum and honey—the quintessential Roman marriage of salty and sweet—was worthy of a banquet where the political alliances she cherished were forged.
When Antony entertained his followers, I left nothing to chance, not even the sauce. We brown the chicken, then drown it in wine, garum, and a little honey—for in Rome, sweet and salty court each other in every bite. A dash of coriander, a leaf of lovage, and we pepper it generously, as befits those who can afford the East. Serve hot: a well-fed guest votes better.
Ingredients (period version)
- Young chicken — 1 (meat)
- Garum — a splash (salty umami (signature))
- Cut white wine — a cup (sauce base)
- Honey — a spoonful (sweetness)
- Coriander, lovage, oregano — to taste (aromatics)
- Long pepper — generously (luxury spice)
Ingredients
- Chicken thighs and drumsticks — 6 pieces (meat)
- Garum (or good quality nuoc mam) — 2 tbsp (salty umami (signature))
- Dry white wine — 150 ml (sauce base)
- Honey — 1 tbsp (sweetness)
- Fresh coriander + dried oregano — 1 handful + 1 tsp (aromatics)
- Lovage or celery stalk — a few leaves (Roman herbaceous note)
- Ground black pepper — generously (spice)
- Olive oil — 2 tbsp (cooking)
Method
- Brown the chicken pieces in olive oil on all sides.
- Mix the wine, garum, and honey, then pour over the chicken.
- Add oregano, lovage, and plenty of pepper; cover and simmer for 30–35 minutes.
- Uncover at the end to reduce the sauce to a shiny glaze.
- Sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve hot, coated with sauce.
How it was made : The Apicius collection (compiled later but reflecting Republican traditions) is full of so-called 'oenogarum' sauces mixing wine, garum, and honey. The sweet-savory profile and lavish use of imported pepper signaled the host's wealth.
The contemporary twist : Glaze the sauce until it resembles an 'ancient teriyaki' and serve on a bed of fava bean purée with mint.
Sources : Apicius, De re coquinaria
Fulvia · Charactorium