Sagamité of the Hochelaga Welcome
A thick porridge of crushed corn enriched with smoked fish and squash, simmered for a long time. Comforting and sweet-umami, it symbolizes the moment of exchange between the French sailors and the inhabitants of the St. Lawrence. (Recipe inspired by Iroquoian cuisine, not a reproduction of a ritual.)
A thick porridge of crushed corn enriched with smoked fish and squash, simmered for a long time. Comforting and sweet-umami, it symbolizes the moment of exchange between the French sailors and the inhabitants of the St. Lawrence. (Recipe inspired by Iroquoian cuisine, not a reproduction of a ritual.)
When we arrived at Hochelaga, these people received us with great joy, dancing and bringing us their bread and their food. They have much corn, which they call in their own way, which they grind between two stones and boil into a thick porridge, with fish and venison. It was not to our French taste, but in a land of cold and scarcity, I assure you it keeps the body warm. I ate it heartily, so as not to displease our hosts.
- •Crushed corn (from Iroquois granaries) — two handfuls (base—American product, attested on site)
- •Dried or smoked fish (sturgeon, eel) — one piece (protein and umami)
- •Squash (American, attested on site) — one piece (sweetness and binder)
- •Spring water — to cover (slow cooking)
Sagamité of the Hochelaga Welcome
A thick porridge of crushed corn enriched with smoked fish and squash, simmered for a long time. Comforting and sweet-umami, it symbolizes the moment of exchange between the French sailors and the inhabitants of the St. Lawrence. (Recipe inspired by Iroquoian cuisine, not a reproduction of a ritual.)
Why this dish? In October 1535, Cartier traveled up the river to Hochelaga (future Montreal) where the Iroquois welcomed him with celebration. He describes their corn granaries and their cooking. Sagamité, a porridge of corn and fish or game, was the staple and sharing dish of these peoples—a food that Cartier and his men tasted during these encounters.
When we arrived at Hochelaga, these people received us with great joy, dancing and bringing us their bread and their food. They have much corn, which they call in their own way, which they grind between two stones and boil into a thick porridge, with fish and venison. It was not to our French taste, but in a land of cold and scarcity, I assure you it keeps the body warm. I ate it heartily, so as not to displease our hosts.
Ingredients (period version)
- Crushed corn (from Iroquois granaries) — two handfuls (base—American product, attested on site)
- Dried or smoked fish (sturgeon, eel) — one piece (protein and umami)
- Squash (American, attested on site) — one piece (sweetness and binder)
- Spring water — to cover (slow cooking)
Ingredients
- Crushed corn / coarse polenta (or hominy) — 200 g (porridge base)
- Smoked fish (haddock, eel, or smoked trout) — 150 g, flaked (protein and umami)
- Squash (pumpkin, butternut) — 300 g, diced (sweetness and binder)
- Water or light broth — 1.2 L (cooking liquid)
- Toasted sunflower seeds — 1 tbsp (crunch (another American product))
Method
- Bring water or broth to a simmer and pour in the crushed corn in a stream while stirring.
- Cook over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring often, until the grains swell and soften.
- Add the squash cubes halfway through cooking so they become tender and sweeten the porridge.
- At the end of cooking, fold in the flaked smoked fish to warm it without breaking it up.
- Serve hot in bowls, sprinkled with toasted sunflower seeds.
How it was made : The St. Lawrence Iroquoians cultivated the 'three sisters' (corn, squash, beans) and stored corn in large granaries. Sagamité, cooked in clay pots or stone-heated containers, varied by season: fish in spring, game in winter, sometimes small fruits. These American foods, forbidden elsewhere before 1492, are perfectly authentic here because we are in North America, after 1492.
The contemporary twist : Dressed like a modern risotto bowl: creamy corn porridge, roasted squash shavings, smoked fish flakes, and a seed tuile.
Sources : Jacques Cartier, account of the second voyage (1535-1536), description of Hochelaga
Jacques Cartier · Charactorium