Grilled fish opson from Piraeus
A fresh rock fish, simply grilled whole over embers, drizzled with olive oil, vinegar, and oregano, seasoned with a little salt. Tender flesh, crispy skin: the dish Athenians fought over at the fish market.
A fresh rock fish, simply grilled whole over embers, drizzled with olive oil, vinegar, and oregano, seasoned with a little salt. Tender flesh, crispy skin: the dish Athenians fought over at the fish market.
Here is the dish my fellow citizens covet to the point of madness! Go down to Piraeus at dawn, when the boats return, and you will see grave men quarreling over a fine fish as if it were the Good itself. I do not condemn it: grilled over the coals, bathed in a little oil and oregano from our hills, it honors a table of friends. But remember, my young friend: a single fish suffices for joy; it is the desire for a thousand that enslaves the soul. Eat with measure, and pleasure will remain your servant.
- •Whole rock fish (red mullet, sea bream) — one fine fish (heart of the dish)
- •Olive oil — to drizzle (cooking and binding)
- •Wine vinegar — a dash (acidity)
- •Dried oregano — a pinch (herb)
- •Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Grilled fish opson from Piraeus
A fresh rock fish, simply grilled whole over embers, drizzled with olive oil, vinegar, and oregano, seasoned with a little salt. Tender flesh, crispy skin: the dish Athenians fought over at the fish market.
Why this dish? The port of Piraeus, one of Plato's haunts, landed fresh fish daily that Athenians prized above all as opson. The Republic opens at Piraeus, where Socrates goes down to attend a festival. A grilled fish shared among friends evokes those Athenian evenings.
Here is the dish my fellow citizens covet to the point of madness! Go down to Piraeus at dawn, when the boats return, and you will see grave men quarreling over a fine fish as if it were the Good itself. I do not condemn it: grilled over the coals, bathed in a little oil and oregano from our hills, it honors a table of friends. But remember, my young friend: a single fish suffices for joy; it is the desire for a thousand that enslaves the soul. Eat with measure, and pleasure will remain your servant.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole rock fish (red mullet, sea bream) — one fine fish (heart of the dish)
- Olive oil — to drizzle (cooking and binding)
- Wine vinegar — a dash (acidity)
- Dried oregano — a pinch (herb)
- Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole sea bream or red mullet, gutted — 1 (approx. 400 g) per person (heart of the dish)
- Extra virgin olive oil — 4 tbsp (cooking and binding)
- Red wine vinegar — 1 tbsp (acidity)
- Dried oregano — 1 tsp (herb)
- Salt and a little crushed coriander seed — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Gut and scale the fish, pat dry, rub with salt and a little oil.
- Grill on a very hot grill (or embers) for 4 to 6 minutes per side depending on size, without turning too often.
- Meanwhile, mix oil, vinegar, oregano, and crushed coriander for a lively sauce.
- Place the fish on a plate, drizzle with the warm sauce, sprinkle with oregano.
- Serve immediately with maza for dipping.
How it was made : Greeks grilled or cooked fish very simply; quality fish needed no heavy sauces. Vinegar, oil, oregano, and coriander were common seasonings. Fish was the quintessential opson: so sought-after that one who overindulged at the expense of bread was called opsophágos.
The contemporary twist : Presented on a slate board with a half-grilled lemon on the side — and the diner is reminded that the Greek word opson, through Latin, gave us "fish" as a table accompaniment.
Sources : Archestratus of Gela, Hedypatheia (4th century BC, fragments on fish) · James Davidson, Courtesans and Fishcakes (1997)
Plato · Charactorium