In London's working-class East End where McQueen grew up, meals aren't thought of as 'starter-main-dessert' but by times of day and places. Mornings mean the 'fry-up' at the local caff. The 'pie shop' serves pie, mash and liquor at the counter. Evening 'tea' gathers the family around a single hearty dish, followed by a comforting 'pudding'. Sunday lunch is the only ceremonial meal of the week. And throughout, tea — strong, sweet, with milk — marks every pause.

Humble British cooking draws its richness from animal fat: suet binds pie crusts and puddings, dripping makes Yorkshire puddings rise and crisps roast potatoes. It's the fatty, thrifty, nourishing soul of the table where McQueen learned to eat — and to cook for his own.