flipJellied Eels
Jellied Eels
Why this dish? Jellied eels are the iconic street food of London's East End, sold on stalls and in 'eel, pie & mash shops' frequented by the working class from which McQueen came. A rough, unpretentious dish, reflecting his roots.
Pieces of eel poached in vinegar and aromatics, left to set in their own jelly. Fresh, vinegary, briny — eaten cold, from the pot, with a spoon.
Alright, I know what you're thinking: cold eel in jelly, bleurgh. But us in the East End, we grow up on it, we buy a pot from the stall for a few coins. It's cold, it's vinegary, it stings a bit, and it's just what you need. There's a beauty in things people find disturbing — I've always liked things that shock a little. Try it before you pull a face.
- •Fresh Thames eel — cut into pieces (base)
- •Vinegar — generous (poaching and acidity)
- •Bay leaf, peppercorns — a few (aromatics)
- •Water — to cover (jelly stock)
Jellied Eels
Pieces of eel poached in vinegar and aromatics, left to set in their own jelly. Fresh, vinegary, briny — eaten cold, from the pot, with a spoon.
Why this dish? Jellied eels are the iconic street food of London's East End, sold on stalls and in 'eel, pie & mash shops' frequented by the working class from which McQueen came. A rough, unpretentious dish, reflecting his roots.
Alright, I know what you're thinking: cold eel in jelly, bleurgh. But us in the East End, we grow up on it, we buy a pot from the stall for a few coins. It's cold, it's vinegary, it stings a bit, and it's just what you need. There's a beauty in things people find disturbing — I've always liked things that shock a little. Try it before you pull a face.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh Thames eel — cut into pieces (base)
- Vinegar — generous (poaching and acidity)
- Bay leaf, peppercorns — a few (aromatics)
- Water — to cover (jelly stock)
Ingredients
- Fresh eel (from fishmonger) — 600 g (base)
- Malt or cider vinegar — 100 ml (acidity)
- Bay leaves — 2 (aromatic)
- Black peppercorns — 1 tsp (aromatic)
- Gelatine — 4 leaves (to set the jelly (eel releases some naturally, but to be sure))
- Lemon juice — 1/2 (freshness when serving)
Method
- Have the eel cut into chunks by the fishmonger, rinse thoroughly.
- Gently poach the chunks in water with vinegar, bay leaves and peppercorns for 15–20 minutes until cooked.
- Remove the eel, strain the stock, dissolve the softened gelatine in it.
- Arrange the eel pieces in bowls or a mould, pour the stock over and refrigerate for at least 4 hours until fully set.
- Serve cold, unmoulded or in the pot, with a squeeze of lemon and a grind of pepper.
How it was made : In the 18th and 19th centuries, eels teemed in the Thames and cost little: they fed London's working classes. Poached, they release collagen that naturally sets the stock into jelly — hence their cool preservation and popularity as street food before modern refrigeration.
The contemporary twist : Mould into small translucent individual domes, sprinkle with cracked pepper and zest — an icy, almost sculptural bite.
Alexander McQueen · Charactorium
