In Spain, eating isn't a three-act 'starter-main-dessert' affair; instead, it follows a long ribbon of occasions spread across the day: a light *desayuno* upon waking (coffee and toast), an *almuerzo* around 11 a.m. to hold you until the main meal, the *comida* taken in the early afternoon (often a hearty soup or stew followed by something lighter), a sweet *merienda* for a snack, and a late, frugal *cena* in the evening. Around all this revolve the *tapeo* (snacking standing up, bar-hopping) and above all the *sobremesa*, that suspended time when you linger at the table after eating, chatting for hours — a ritual much like a university seminar that never wants to end.

This red powder made from peppers dried over oak smoke is the soul of Castilian cuisine: it tints the broth of *cocido*, perfumes chorizo, colours *escabeche*. The pepper came from the New World, yes, but we're in the 21st century — it's been part of the Spanish pantry since the 16th century. It's the red thread, literally, that ties together Ana's recipes.