Ana García’s menu
Caballa en escabeche
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Conserva de despensa (pantry preserve, in escabeche)

Caballa en escabeche

PreservingDocumented🍋 🧂facile30 min (+ 12 h marination)
Conserva de despensa (pantry preserve, in escabeche)

Caballa en escabeche

Why this dish? Escabeche is the quintessential Spanish preserving technique: fish cooked then marinated in vinegar and oil, which keeps for days and improves with time. For a researcher with an unpredictable schedule, it's the dish of foresight: prepared on Sunday, it waits in the fridge until a seminar that runs late finally leaves time for dinner.

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Conserva de despensa (pantry preserve, in escabeche)

Mackerel fillets browned then bathed in a warm marinade of vinegar, olive oil, garlic, bay leaf, and *pimentón*. They are left to marinate at least overnight: they keep and gain in flavour.

My grandmother used to say that *escabeche* is the memory of the pantry before refrigerators — and I use it as an edible archive! I brown my *caballa* fillets, then drown them in warm vinegar with garlic, bay leaf, and a touch of *pimentón*, and I forget them in the fridge overnight. The next day, when a seminar runs over and I come home starving at ten in the evening, my dinner is waiting, better than the day before. Patience and vinegar: two virtues of a researcher.
Ana García
Ingredients
  • Fresh mackerel (caballa)a few, filleted (base)
  • Wine vinegara good splash (preservation and acidity)
  • Olive oilgenerous amounts (marinade)
  • Garlica few cloves (aroma)
  • Bay leaves2 or 3 (aroma)
  • Pimentón de la Veraa spoonful (colour and smokiness)
  • Black peppercornsa few (spice)
  • Saltto taste (seasoning)
How it was made : *Escabeche*, of Arabo-Persian origin (from the word *sikbāj*), spread throughout the Iberian Peninsula in the Middle Ages. Before refrigeration, vinegar and oil allowed fish and game to be preserved for several days — a vital technique in a country with long distances and scorching summers.
Sources : Simone Ortega, 1080 recetas de cocina, Alianza Editorial · Claudia Roden, The Food of Spain, Penguin

See also