Ang Lee at the table

In Taiwan, a meal revolves around rice (fan), a silent and steady base, accompanied by several small shared dishes (cài) placed in the center of the table for everyone to pick from. Alongside this family meal exists a whole world of xiaochi, the 'small bites' of night markets and street stalls, and also sweets and drinks that are offered or taken away. It is not a starter-main-dessert succession, but a constellation of flavors around the rice bowl.

The soul of Taiwanese cooking lies in two gestures: the crispy fried shallot (you cong su) that perfumes everything, and the slow soy braise with rock sugar and five-spice (the lu technique) that gives meats their deep brown color and savory sweetness. It is this aroma that Ang Lee seeks in Asian restaurants around the world.