Michelle Bachelet at the table

In Chile, the day revolves around almuerzo, the big midday meal (often a cazuela or a hearty one-dish meal), followed by onces in the late afternoon — a savory-sweet snack inherited from Anglo-Chilean tradition, with bread, sopaipillas, and tea. Empanadas and refreshments like mote con huesillos belong to celebrations and summer. Courses are not separated: large generous dishes are shared, from comforting hot food to street sweets.

Merkén — smoked and dried aji cacho de cabra chili, ground with coriander and salt, inherited from the Mapuche — is the spicy soul of Chilean cuisine. Fresh, it becomes pebre, the salsa of coriander, onion, garlic, and chili placed on every table. It is the bright, smoky note that marks Bachelet's country.