At the Qing court, a meal for the Empress Dowager had neither "starter" nor "dessert" but a cascade of dishes — sometimes several dozen — presented all together or in waves on large lacquered trays. One distinguishes tonifying foods (補, bǔ, meant to nourish the body and soul), savory banquet dishes, sweets (點心, diǎnxīn), and beverages. The auspicious Manchu foods (game, dried seafood) mingle with Han refinement. On Buddhist fasting days, the entire meal becomes vegetarian (素, sù), without a trace of meat.

Solidified saliva of swiftlets, this translucent and costly product is THE marker of Qing luxury: it was soaked for hours then gently simmered. At Ci'an's table, it signals rank as much as it "tonifies." With it, the art of gentle steaming and clear broths — never brutalize a noble ingredient.