flipYellow Pea Cake — Sweet of the Forbidden City
Yellow Pea Cake — Sweet of the Forbidden City
Why this dish? Pea cake (豌豆黃), a popular Beijing sweet adopted and refined by the imperial kitchens, was among the sweet snacks of the Qing court — the kind of delicate treat that suited Ci'an's measured and pious taste between meals.
A small melting block, pale yellow, made from yellow peas reduced to a sweetened purée then set into a jelly. Fresh, barely sweet, cut into neat cubes: the sober sweetness of the palace.
When the afternoon stretches and I rest from state affairs, these small yellow squares are brought to me, cool and quivering. Nothing gaudy: just the pea reduced to purée and a little sugar, chilled until it holds under the knife. It is a sweet of the people of Beijing, but the kitchen has refined it so it melts effortlessly on the tongue. I take one, two at most — moderation befits a woman of my rank as much as my faith.
- •Dried yellow peas (豌豆) — one measure (base)
- •Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- •Water — as needed (cooking)
Yellow Pea Cake — Sweet of the Forbidden City
A small melting block, pale yellow, made from yellow peas reduced to a sweetened purée then set into a jelly. Fresh, barely sweet, cut into neat cubes: the sober sweetness of the palace.
Why this dish? Pea cake (豌豆黃), a popular Beijing sweet adopted and refined by the imperial kitchens, was among the sweet snacks of the Qing court — the kind of delicate treat that suited Ci'an's measured and pious taste between meals.
When the afternoon stretches and I rest from state affairs, these small yellow squares are brought to me, cool and quivering. Nothing gaudy: just the pea reduced to purée and a little sugar, chilled until it holds under the knife. It is a sweet of the people of Beijing, but the kitchen has refined it so it melts effortlessly on the tongue. I take one, two at most — moderation befits a woman of my rank as much as my faith.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried yellow peas (豌豆) — one measure (base)
- Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- Water — as needed (cooking)
Ingredients
- Yellow split peas (or chickpeas in a pinch) — 200 g (base)
- Sugar — 60 to 80 g (sweetness)
- Water — 500 ml + for cooking (cooking and binding)
- Agar-agar — 2 g (firm setting)
Method
- Soak the yellow peas for several hours, then cook in water until they mash easily.
- Blend into a very smooth purée and pass through a sieve to remove skins.
- Return to the pot with sugar, heat while stirring.
- Dissolve agar-agar in a little water, add it, and bring to a simmer for 2 minutes.
- Pour into a rectangular mold, let cool, then refrigerate for 3-4 hours to set.
- Unmold and cut into neat cubes before serving cold.
How it was made : 豌豆黃 was sold in the streets of Beijing in spring; it is said the Qing court liked it so much that it entered the imperial repertoire. At the time, without industrial agar, setting relied solely on the concentration of pea starch, slowly reduced — hence a more rustic texture than today's neat jelly.
The contemporary twist : Cut into diamond shapes with a cookie cutter and place a dot of jujube paste in the center for a "court jewel" effect.
Ci'an · Charactorium
