The rule of the Chinese Buddhist monk knows neither starter nor dessert: two frugal, entirely vegetarian meals are taken—one at dawn (a light congee), the other before noon (the main meal, as no solid food is eaten after the sun has passed its zenith). Everything is served in the alms bowl (pātra), without waste, in silence and gratitude. While traveling, this framework is reduced to whatever the faithful offer or to dried provisions carried on one's person.

A salty, deeply umami condiment attested in China since the Han dynasty and ubiquitous in the cuisine of monasteries during the Jin and Southern Song dynasties. A few fermented beans suffice to flavor a congee or vegetables without any animal product: this is the secret of a lean yet tasty cuisine.