Laskarina Bouboulina at the table

On the Greek islands like Spetses, meals are not served in separate courses as in France. The sofrá, a low shared table, is laid with small dishes — the mezédes — that everyone picks at: bread and cheese, vegetables in oil, grilled fish, all accompanied by the island's wine. On religious feast days, a large roast sits in the center. The sea and the Orthodox calendar dictate what is served: fish on fasting days, lamb at Easter and for the saints. Turkish coffee always closes the gathering.