In the household of an 18th-century Reformed scholar — whether in Basel, Berlin, or St. Petersburg — the main midday meal (Mittagessen) almost always begins with a soup (Suppe) that serves as the foundation, followed by a roasted or braised meat dish (Hauptgericht) on feast days, and rye bread at any hour. In the afternoon, Kaffeestunde gathers the family around coffee, tea, or chocolate with a long-lasting sweet treat. Frugality and regularity are virtues; luxury is reserved for holidays and visits from academic colleagues.

Slowly browning flour in a dry pan until it reaches a hazelnut color is the emblematic gesture of Basel cuisine: it gives the soup a toasty, almost umami depth, without any New World ingredients. It is the soul of the table where young Leonhard grew up.