flipCharlotte Russe with Vanilla Cream
Charlotte Russe with Vanilla Cream
Why this dish? Created by the famous Carême at the beginning of the century, the charlotte russe was THE chic dessert of the Romantic salons that Musset frequented, where verses were recited between champagne and candles. A reception entremets, elegant and cold.
A crown of ladyfingers encloses a vanilla bavarian cream, set in the cold. Unmolded, it stands like a pale little castle, proud in the center of the table.
I am reproached enough for my excesses that I may at least claim that of sweets! Look at this charlotte: it is a salon caprice, a pastry coquetry. Line your mold with ladyfingers standing upright, tight as ladies at the Opera, then fill with this cream that sets in the cold. The trick? Whip your cream until it holds, but stop before it turns to butter — as in love, everything is in the moment you stop.
- •Ladyfingers — about twenty (wall)
- •Fresh cream — a good chopine (bavarian)
- •Milk, egg yolks — as needed (custard)
- •Vanilla pod — one (flavor)
- •Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- •Isinglass (gelatin) — a little (setting)
Charlotte Russe with Vanilla Cream
A crown of ladyfingers encloses a vanilla bavarian cream, set in the cold. Unmolded, it stands like a pale little castle, proud in the center of the table.
Why this dish? Created by the famous Carême at the beginning of the century, the charlotte russe was THE chic dessert of the Romantic salons that Musset frequented, where verses were recited between champagne and candles. A reception entremets, elegant and cold.
I am reproached enough for my excesses that I may at least claim that of sweets! Look at this charlotte: it is a salon caprice, a pastry coquetry. Line your mold with ladyfingers standing upright, tight as ladies at the Opera, then fill with this cream that sets in the cold. The trick? Whip your cream until it holds, but stop before it turns to butter — as in love, everything is in the moment you stop.
Ingredients (period version)
- Ladyfingers — about twenty (wall)
- Fresh cream — a good chopine (bavarian)
- Milk, egg yolks — as needed (custard)
- Vanilla pod — one (flavor)
- Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- Isinglass (gelatin) — a little (setting)
Ingredients
- Ladyfingers — 24 (mold lining)
- Milk — 250 ml (custard)
- Egg yolks — 3 (binding)
- Sugar — 80 g (sweetness)
- Vanilla pod — 1 (flavor)
- Gelatin — 3 sheets (6 g) (setting)
- Heavy cream — 250 ml (whipped bavarian)
Method
- Line a charlotte mold with ladyfingers standing vertically, rounded side outward.
- Prepare a custard: heat milk with vanilla, pour over yolks + sugar, cook gently without boiling.
- Dissolve softened gelatin in the custard; let cool until thickened.
- Whip the well-chilled heavy cream into soft peaks and fold in delicately.
- Pour into the mold, cover with ladyfingers, refrigerate at least 4 hours, then unmold.
How it was made : Antonin Carême, pastry chef to European courts, perfected the charlotte russe with a bavarian cream set with "isinglass" (sturgeon gelatin). It was chilled in the icehouse, filled with ice delivered by merchants.
The contemporary twist : Gird the charlotte with a pale satin ribbon when serving, like a poet's dedication.
Sources : Antonin Carême, Le Pâtissier royal parisien (1815) · Urbain Dubois & Émile Bernard, La Cuisine classique (1856)
Alfred de Musset · Charactorium
