Hoecake — Corn Griddle Cake on a Hoe
A thick griddle cake of cornmeal, browned in fat, crispy on the outside and soft in the center. It was literally cooked on the iron of a hoe held over the coals — hence its name. It is the simplest and most universal bread of the South.
A thick griddle cake of cornmeal, browned in fat, crispy on the outside and soft in the center. It was literally cooked on the iron of a hoe held over the coals — hence its name. It is the simplest and most universal bread of the South.
You want to know what a man eats when he marches against the enemy? Cornmeal, water, a pinch of salt, and fire — nothing else. At The Hermitage as at the bivouac, I've seen these cakes cooked on the iron of a hoe over the coals. Don't talk to me about your Washington pastries: give me a hot hoecake and some bacon, and I'll hold the line all day. A soldier who eats simply fears no one.
- •White cornmeal — two good handfuls (base)
- •Boiling water — enough to bind (binder)
- •Salt — a pinch (seasoning)
- •Lard (pork fat) — a spoonful (cooking)
Hoecake — Corn Griddle Cake on a Hoe
A thick griddle cake of cornmeal, browned in fat, crispy on the outside and soft in the center. It was literally cooked on the iron of a hoe held over the coals — hence its name. It is the simplest and most universal bread of the South.
Why this dish? The hoecake was the daily bread of Tennessee, shared by planter, soldier, and slave. Jackson, a hardened soldier then master of The Hermitage, ate it all his life: during the 1814 campaign as well as at his presidential table.
You want to know what a man eats when he marches against the enemy? Cornmeal, water, a pinch of salt, and fire — nothing else. At The Hermitage as at the bivouac, I've seen these cakes cooked on the iron of a hoe over the coals. Don't talk to me about your Washington pastries: give me a hot hoecake and some bacon, and I'll hold the line all day. A soldier who eats simply fears no one.
Ingredients (period version)
- White cornmeal — two good handfuls (base)
- Boiling water — enough to bind (binder)
- Salt — a pinch (seasoning)
- Lard (pork fat) — a spoonful (cooking)
Ingredients
- Fine cornmeal (cornmeal) — 150 g (base)
- Boiling water — 180 ml approx. (binder)
- Salt — 1/2 tsp (seasoning)
- Lard or clarified butter — 2 tbsp (cooking)
Method
- Mix cornmeal and salt in a bowl.
- Gradually pour in boiling water while stirring until a thick but pliable dough forms; let rest 5 min.
- Shape into palm-sized patties, about 1 cm thick.
- Melt lard in a well-heated cast-iron skillet.
- Cook each patty 4 to 5 min per side, until a golden, crispy crust forms.
- Serve piping hot, with a bit of bacon or molasses.
How it was made : These cakes were cooked on any hot metal surface: the iron of a hoe, a plate set on the coals, or a cast-iron skillet. White cornmeal, finely ground at the plantation mill, was the staple food of the entire South, from the richest planter to the slave in the quarters.
The contemporary twist : Serve the hoecake like a Southern blini: a dollop of crème fraîche and a drizzle of molasses for the sweet-savory interplay, or as a crispy side to pulled pork.
Andrew Jackson · Charactorium
