The meal of the Eastern Han centers on two pillars: fàn (飯), grain steamed or boiled — millet in the north, rice when available — which forms the nourishing core, and gēng (羹), a thick vegetable or meat potage that accompanies and enhances it. Around these revolve fermented condiments (醬 jiàng, 豉 chǐ) and salted vegetables (菹 zū), set out in small cups. At the imperial table, the number of dishes marked rank; at Deng Sui's table, they were deliberately reduced to set an example of frugality.

Fermented and dried black soybean, ancestor of dòuchǐ, was the great flavor enhancer of Han China. Jars of it have been found in the Mawangdui tombs. A handful of these salty, deeply umami beans transforms a simple millet broth into a comforting dish — the ideal ally for a cuisine that aims to be frugal without being dreary.