Kourmangazy’s menu
Baursak
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Nan (bread of the dastarkhan)

Baursak

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Nan (bread of the dastarkhan)

Baursak

Why this dish? Baursaks — these golden, puffy fritters — were present at every *toï* (festival) where Kurmangazy played. They were piled into golden pyramids on the dastarkhan to celebrate a wedding, a birth, or the arrival of an honored guest. A musician as famous as Kurmangazy was welcomed with a mountain of baursaks: the generosity of the pile measured the respect accorded to him.

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Nan (bread of the dastarkhan)

Small leavened dough fritters, fried in mutton fat until golden and puffy. Soft inside, crispy outside, traditionally piled into a pyramid on the festive cloth.

Listen, when you arrive at an *aoul* and see the mountain of baursaks on the dastarkhan, you know your *küi* has touched their hearts. The old mother fries them in fat from the fat-tailed sheep, and each one puffs up like a little cousin rejoicing at your coming. I eat them burning hot, dipped in steppe honey, and I tell myself that God put music and baursaks on earth for the same reason — so that men may gather and forget their quarrels.
Kourmangazy
Ingredients
  • Wheat floura large bowl (base)
  • Cow's or mare's milka bowl (liquid)
  • Mutton fat (melted tail fat)a ladle for dough, a full *kazan* for frying (fat)
  • Natural sourdough startera piece (leavening)
  • Salta pinch (flavor)
  • Honeyfor serving (accompaniment)
How it was made : Baursaks were fried in melted fat from the fat-tailed sheep (*kurdiuk*), giving them a rich, characteristic flavor. The dough rose thanks to natural sourdough starter kept from batch to batch. Piled into pyramids (*tobeler*), they symbolized prosperity and hospitality. They were prepared for every important event: birth, wedding, funeral, welcoming a traveler. No Kazakh dastarkhan could open without baursaks — their absence would have been an insult.
Sources : Будагов Лазарь, Сравнительный словарь турецко-татарских наречий, Saint-Pétersbourg, 1869 (entry "бауырсақ") · Shirin Akiner, The Formation of Kazakh Identity: From Tribe to Nation-State, Royal Institute of International Affairs, 1995

See also