Beshbarmak (бешбармақ)
Large boiled mutton dish served on sheets of pasta (jalpak kespe), topped with onions melted in fatty broth, accompanied by sörpa served separately. Each guest receives a piece assigned according to their rank.
Large boiled mutton dish served on sheets of pasta (jalpak kespe), topped with onions melted in fatty broth, accompanied by sörpa served separately. Each guest receives a piece assigned according to their rank.
Friend, know that among us a man is judged by his dastarkhan. When I receive a traveler passing through the steppe, the mutton is already boiling before his mount is unsaddled. The head is presented to the eldest; the pelvis goes to the guest of honor. The pasta sheets drink the broth's juice and the fat perfumes the fingers — that is why it is called beshbarmak, the five fingers. I watch my guests eat and I know whether my hospitality is worthy of the memory of my fathers.
- •Whole sheep (a young ram) — one animal, about 15-20 kg (Main meat, boiled for a long time)
- •Fat tail of sheep (kuyryk-may) — the whole tail (Cooking fat and topping)
- •Wheat flour — several handfuls (Dough for jalpak (sheets))
- •Wild or cultivated onions — an armful (Melting garnish in the broth)
- •Salt — to taste (Seasoning)
- •Spring water — abundant (Broth)
Beshbarmak (бешбармақ)
Large boiled mutton dish served on sheets of pasta (jalpak kespe), topped with onions melted in fatty broth, accompanied by sörpa served separately. Each guest receives a piece assigned according to their rank.
Why this dish? Abai, descended from a line of sultan-governors, regularly presided over ceremonial dastarkhans at his residence in Zhidebay and during festivities in the Chingiz-Tau mountains. Beshbarmak — literally "five fingers", as it is eaten by hand — is the dish of honor at any Kazakh reception. Distributing the mutton pieces according to the guests' rank was part of the duties of a host of his standing.
Friend, know that among us a man is judged by his dastarkhan. When I receive a traveler passing through the steppe, the mutton is already boiling before his mount is unsaddled. The head is presented to the eldest; the pelvis goes to the guest of honor. The pasta sheets drink the broth's juice and the fat perfumes the fingers — that is why it is called beshbarmak, the five fingers. I watch my guests eat and I know whether my hospitality is worthy of the memory of my fathers.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole sheep (a young ram) — one animal, about 15-20 kg (Main meat, boiled for a long time)
- Fat tail of sheep (kuyryk-may) — the whole tail (Cooking fat and topping)
- Wheat flour — several handfuls (Dough for jalpak (sheets))
- Wild or cultivated onions — an armful (Melting garnish in the broth)
- Salt — to taste (Seasoning)
- Spring water — abundant (Broth)
Ingredients
- Lamb shoulder and leg with bone — 1.5 kg (Main meat)
- Fatty sheep tail (or 100 g lamb fat) — 200 g (Traditional fat)
- Flour — 400 g (Jalpak dough)
- Egg — 1 (Binder for dough)
- Water — 150 ml + 3 L for broth (Dough and broth)
- Onions — 4 large (Garnish)
- Salt — 2 tsp (Seasoning)
- Black pepper — 1 tsp (Seasoning)
- Fresh parsley — 1 bunch (Finishing)
Method
- Place the lamb with bones in a large pot, cover with 3 liters of cold water. Bring to a boil, skim carefully, add salt, then reduce heat and simmer covered for 2.5 to 3 hours, until the meat falls off the bone.
- While cooking, prepare the dough: mix flour, egg, a pinch of salt and 150 ml water. Knead until smooth and elastic. Let rest 30 minutes under a cloth.
- Roll out the dough very thinly (2 mm) on a floured surface. Cut into large diamonds or squares about 10 cm on each side — these are the jalpak.
- Slice the onions into half-moons. Melt them in 3-4 ladles of fatty broth taken from the pot, over medium heat, for 15 minutes.
- Remove the meat from the broth, cut into generous pieces following the joints. Keep warm.
- Bring the broth to a simmer. Cook the jalpak for 3-5 minutes, remove with a slotted spoon.
- Assemble: place the pasta sheets on a large oval platter, distribute the meat on top, generously cover with the melted onions and their juice. Serve the sörpa (broth) separately in individual bowls.
How it was made : In the 19th-century steppe, a whole sheep was slaughtered for the occasion. The cooking was done in a kazan (cast-iron cauldron) placed on an open fire, inside or in front of the yurt. The dough was rolled out directly on a tanned hide. The distribution of pieces followed a strict protocol: the head to the eldest, the pelvis (janbas) to the main guest, the ribs to women, the vertebrae to children.
The contemporary twist : Serve on an oval earthenware platter with low edges, sprinkle with chopped parsley and a drizzle of concentrated broth reduced to a short sauce for a glossy finish.
Sources : Алтынбеков М., Қазақтың дәстүрлі тағамдары (Traditional Kazakh Dishes), Almaty, 2007 · Zardykhan, Zharmukhamed, « Food Culture of the Kazakh Nomads », Central Asian Survey, vol. 23, 2004
Abai Kunanbaev · Charactorium
