Restorative Capon Broth
A long, clear capon broth, concentrated enough to revive strength. The 17th-century 'restaurant', prescribed to the sick and convalescent long before the name was given to a place.
A long, clear capon broth, concentrated enough to revive strength. The 17th-century 'restaurant', prescribed to the sick and convalescent long before the name was given to a place.
You find me pale? Eh, I cough more than I would like — keep that between us, and far from my doctors! Put a fine capon in cold water, skim patiently, let it simmer for hours with leek and turnip until you draw a clear, strengthening broth they call restaurant, for it restores a half-dead man. I take a cup between rehearsals; it does me more good than all their prescriptions in kitchen Latin.
- •Capon (or old fat hen) — one (nourishing base)
- •Leek — one (aromatic)
- •Turnip — one or two (mild aromatic)
- •Herb bouquet (parsley, thyme, bay leaf) — one (flavor, La Varenne signature)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Restorative Capon Broth
A long, clear capon broth, concentrated enough to revive strength. The 17th-century 'restaurant', prescribed to the sick and convalescent long before the name was given to a place.
Why this dish? Molière, consumptive, played *The Imaginary Invalid* and collapsed on stage in 1673; he died a few hours later. Capon broth, called 'restaurant' because it restores strength, was THE remedy of the era for weakened bodies — a poignant echo for the man who mocked doctors while fighting illness.
You find me pale? Eh, I cough more than I would like — keep that between us, and far from my doctors! Put a fine capon in cold water, skim patiently, let it simmer for hours with leek and turnip until you draw a clear, strengthening broth they call restaurant, for it restores a half-dead man. I take a cup between rehearsals; it does me more good than all their prescriptions in kitchen Latin.
Ingredients (period version)
- Capon (or old fat hen) — one (nourishing base)
- Leek — one (aromatic)
- Turnip — one or two (mild aromatic)
- Herb bouquet (parsley, thyme, bay leaf) — one (flavor, La Varenne signature)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Capon or free-range hen (or thighs) — 1.2 kg (base)
- Leek — 1 (aromatic)
- Turnips — 2 (mild aromatic)
- Carrot — 1 (sweetness (already known in Europe))
- Bouquet garni — 1 (flavor)
- Water — 2.5 L (liquid)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Place the capon in cold water, bring gently to a simmer.
- Skim the surface carefully as impurities rise.
- Add leek, turnips, carrot, and bouquet garni; season lightly with salt.
- Simmer on very low heat for 2.5 to 3 hours, without boiling, for a clear broth.
- Strain, degrease, adjust salt, and serve very hot in cups or bowls.
- Reserve the meat for another preparation (the broth is the essential part here).
How it was made : In the 17th century, a 'restaurant' referred to a concentrated broth believed to restore the strength of the sick — the word would only designate a place around 1765. It was considered sovereign against exhaustion and fevers; cookery and health treatises gave recipes enriched with potable gold or precious stones for the wealthiest.
The contemporary twist : Serve in a cup, like a consommé, with a thin shaving of Parmesan on top to enhance umami — an artist's dressing room comfort.
Sources : François Pierre de La Varenne, Le Cuisinier françois, 1651
Molière · Charactorium