flipSfenj with Honey — Golden Fritters from the Alleys of Fez
Sfenj with Honey — Golden Fritters from the Alleys of Fez
Why this dish? Beneath the walls of the Bou Inania Madrasa that Abu Inan built, students and the common people of Fez bought these puffed fritters piping hot in the early morning. This is the popular treat of the city where the sultan shone, the humble counterpart to his palace feasts.
Rings of leavened dough, hand-stretched and dropped into boiling oil, puffing into golden fritters, crisp outside and fluffy inside. Dipped hot into honey: pure sweet comfort of the early morning.
Walk at daybreak in the alleys of my city, near the madrasa I built for scholars, and you will smell the sfenj before you see it. The fritter-maker dips his wet fingers into the dough, stretches it into a ring and throws it into the singing oil; it puffs up at once as if by blessing. He strings it hot on a palm leaf, drowns it in honey, and the poor student begins his day with a contented heart. God's delights are not reserved for kings alone.
- •Wheat flour — a full bowl (base)
- •Sourdough starter — a piece (leavening)
- •Salted warm water — to consistency (hydration)
- •Oil for frying — abundant (cooking)
- •Honey — for drizzling (finish)
Sfenj with Honey — Golden Fritters from the Alleys of Fez
Rings of leavened dough, hand-stretched and dropped into boiling oil, puffing into golden fritters, crisp outside and fluffy inside. Dipped hot into honey: pure sweet comfort of the early morning.
Why this dish? Beneath the walls of the Bou Inania Madrasa that Abu Inan built, students and the common people of Fez bought these puffed fritters piping hot in the early morning. This is the popular treat of the city where the sultan shone, the humble counterpart to his palace feasts.
Walk at daybreak in the alleys of my city, near the madrasa I built for scholars, and you will smell the sfenj before you see it. The fritter-maker dips his wet fingers into the dough, stretches it into a ring and throws it into the singing oil; it puffs up at once as if by blessing. He strings it hot on a palm leaf, drowns it in honey, and the poor student begins his day with a contented heart. God's delights are not reserved for kings alone.
Ingredients (period version)
- Wheat flour — a full bowl (base)
- Sourdough starter — a piece (leavening)
- Salted warm water — to consistency (hydration)
- Oil for frying — abundant (cooking)
- Honey — for drizzling (finish)
Ingredients
- Flour — 500 g (base)
- Baker's yeast — 1 packet (or 15 g fresh) (leavening)
- Warm water — ~350 ml (hydration)
- Salt — 1 tsp (seasoning)
- Neutral oil for frying — 1 l (cooking)
- Honey — 200 g (finish)
Method
- Dissolve yeast in warm water, mix with flour and salt to obtain a very soft, sticky dough.
- Knead/beat the dough until elastic, cover and let rise 1-2 hours until doubled.
- With wet hands, take balls, poke a hole in the center and stretch into a ring.
- Fry in hot oil, turning, until puffed and golden; drain.
- Dip immediately in warmed honey (or serve honey on the side) and eat hot.
How it was made : Fried leavened dough fritters drizzled with honey are an ancient treat of the Arab-Mediterranean world; Andalusian-Maghrebi cookbooks describe fried doughs with honey (similar to isfanj). Sold hot on the street by fritter-makers, they were the morning snack accessible to all in cities like Fez.
The contemporary twist : Sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and served with mint tea: the fassi breakfast that has barely changed in seven centuries.
Sources : Anonymous Andalusian, Kitab al-tabikh fi al-Maghrib wa-l-Andalus (13th c., fried doughs with honey) · Culinary traditions of Fez (sfenj)
Abou Inan · Charactorium
