flipGunsbach Kugelhopf
Gunsbach Kugelhopf
Why this dish? Born in Kaysersberg, raised in Gunsbach, Schweitzer carried Alsace within him all his life. Kugelhopf, the molded Sunday brioche, keeps well and travels—like him, constantly in transit between Europe and Gabon on long sea crossings.
A soft, twisted crown brioche, perfumed with raisins and almonds, dusted with sugar. The taste of the homeland, made to last several days and sweeten exile.
When I left Gunsbach for the virgin forest, I thought of this crown-shaped cake that we baked at home, in its glazed earthenware mold. It kept for whole days, which was no small thing for someone embarking on weeks-long journeys to Africa. A little kirsch on the raisins, almonds at the bottom of the mold, and Sunday kept its sweetness even far from the organ of my Alsatian church.
- •Wheat flour — a good amount (structure)
- •Sourdough or brewer's yeast — as needed (leavening)
- •Butter — generous (softness)
- •Eggs — a few (binder and richness)
- •Milk — a bowl (hydration)
- •Raisins — a handful (filling)
- •Whole almonds — a few (mold decoration)
- •Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
Gunsbach Kugelhopf
A soft, twisted crown brioche, perfumed with raisins and almonds, dusted with sugar. The taste of the homeland, made to last several days and sweeten exile.
Why this dish? Born in Kaysersberg, raised in Gunsbach, Schweitzer carried Alsace within him all his life. Kugelhopf, the molded Sunday brioche, keeps well and travels—like him, constantly in transit between Europe and Gabon on long sea crossings.
When I left Gunsbach for the virgin forest, I thought of this crown-shaped cake that we baked at home, in its glazed earthenware mold. It kept for whole days, which was no small thing for someone embarking on weeks-long journeys to Africa. A little kirsch on the raisins, almonds at the bottom of the mold, and Sunday kept its sweetness even far from the organ of my Alsatian church.
Ingredients (period version)
- Wheat flour — a good amount (structure)
- Sourdough or brewer's yeast — as needed (leavening)
- Butter — generous (softness)
- Eggs — a few (binder and richness)
- Milk — a bowl (hydration)
- Raisins — a handful (filling)
- Whole almonds — a few (mold decoration)
- Sugar — to taste (sweetness)
Ingredients
- All-purpose flour (T45) — 500 g (structure)
- Fresh baker's yeast — 20 g (leavening)
- Softened butter — 150 g (softness)
- Eggs — 2 (binder and richness)
- Warm milk — 200 ml (hydration)
- Sugar — 80 g (sweetness)
- Salt — 1 tsp (balance)
- Raisins (soaked in a little kirsch or warm water) — 100 g (filling)
- Whole almonds — 12 (mold decoration)
- Powdered sugar — for dusting (finishing)
Method
- Dissolve the yeast in warm milk with a spoonful of sugar; let foam for 10 minutes.
- Mix the flour, remaining sugar and salt, add the eggs and yeast milk, and knead for 10 minutes.
- Gradually incorporate the softened butter until the dough is smooth and elastic, then add the drained raisins.
- Cover and let rise for 1 hour 30 minutes until doubled.
- Butter a kugelhopf mold, place one almond in each groove, shape the dough into a ring around the central tube.
- Let rise for another hour, then bake at 180°C for 40 to 45 minutes.
- Unmold while warm and generously dust with powdered sugar.
How it was made : In Alsace, kugelhopf was baked in a fluted glazed earthenware mold, passed down through generations. It was prepared on Saturday evening for Sunday morning; its richness in butter and eggs allowed it to keep for several days, ideal for long absences.
The contemporary twist : Fold a few candied orange zest pieces into the dough and serve a lightly toasted slice with a spoonful of mirabelle plum jam.
Sources : Tradition pâtissière alsacienne — le kugelhopf (gâteau en couronne) · Albert Schweitzer, *Souvenirs de mon enfance* (*Aus meiner Kindheit und Jugendzeit*), 1924
Albert Schweitzer · Charactorium
