Poires Tapées in Vouvray
Dried and flattened pears, long poached in Vouvray flavored with sugar and cinnamon, until they become tender and wine-soaked. An amber sweetness, both sweet and tangy.
Dried and flattened pears, long poached in Vouvray flavored with sugar and cinnamon, until they become tender and wine-soaked. An amber sweetness, both sweet and tangy.
My neighbors in Rivarennes made these funny flat pears that kept all winter, hard as leather. The trick is to soak them a long time in white wine with a little sugar and cinnamon—and then, magic: they plump up, become tender, and the wine turns into golden syrup. I served them at the end of the meal, just warm. A marvel, and nothing complicated—simplicity is what I love best.
- •Dried flattened pears (poires tapées) — a dozen (preserved fruit)
- •White Vouvray wine — one bottle (rehydration bath)
- •Sugar — a good handful (sweetness, syrup)
- •Cinnamon — one stick (flavor)
Poires Tapées in Vouvray
Dried and flattened pears, long poached in Vouvray flavored with sugar and cinnamon, until they become tender and wine-soaked. An amber sweetness, both sweet and tangy.
Why this dish? In Rivarennes, very close to Saché, whole pears were dried in the oven and flattened by hand: the famous *poires tapées* of Touraine. Rehydrated in sweet Vouvray, they offered Calder's table a simple, local dessert just as he liked them.
My neighbors in Rivarennes made these funny flat pears that kept all winter, hard as leather. The trick is to soak them a long time in white wine with a little sugar and cinnamon—and then, magic: they plump up, become tender, and the wine turns into golden syrup. I served them at the end of the meal, just warm. A marvel, and nothing complicated—simplicity is what I love best.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried flattened pears (poires tapées) — a dozen (preserved fruit)
- White Vouvray wine — one bottle (rehydration bath)
- Sugar — a good handful (sweetness, syrup)
- Cinnamon — one stick (flavor)
Ingredients
- Poires tapées (or dried pears) — 12 (dried fruit)
- Semi-sweet Vouvray white wine — 750 ml (poaching liquid)
- Sugar — 100 g (syrup)
- Cinnamon stick — 1 (spice)
- Orange zest (optional) — 1 strip (freshness)
Method
- Place the poires tapées in a saucepan, cover with Vouvray, add sugar, cinnamon, and zest.
- Bring to a gentle simmer and poach over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, until the pears are tender.
- Carefully remove the pears and set aside in a dish.
- Reduce the poaching liquid over high heat until it becomes a coating syrup.
- Nap the pears with the syrup and serve warm, alone or with a little fresh cheese.
How it was made : In Rivarennes, whole pears were dried in the cooling bread oven for several days, then *tapped* one by one with a flattening tool to expel air: thus preserved, they kept all winter and were rehydrated in wine or water when served.
The contemporary twist : Plate each glossy pear on a dish with a streak of syrup painted in a swift gesture—a sweet brushstroke, like one of the artist's gouaches.
Sources : Confrérie des Poires Tapées de Rivarennes · Curnonsky, La France gastronomique — La Touraine
Alexander Calder · Charactorium