Alexandra David-Néel’s menu
Po cha, Salted Butter Tea
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Foundation beverage of the hearth (cha)

Po cha, Salted Butter Tea

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Foundation beverage of the hearth (cha)

Po cha, Salted Butter Tea

Why this dish? Alexandra recounts drinking countless bowls of this churned butter tea throughout her clandestine march to Lhasa: it was at once her drink, her soup, and her internal heating against the cold of the passes.

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Foundation beverage of the hearth (cha)

A strong black tea, long churned with butter and salt until it forms a frothy, creamy, and salty emulsion. Far from sweet Western tea, it is almost a broth: you drink ten, fifteen bowls a day to withstand the cold and altitude.

Do not pull a face, I beg you! I hated this brew on the first day, like any self-respecting European, and then the cold of the passes taught me to love it. One beats the black tea with butter and a pinch of salt in a long wooden churn until it froths like a soup. Believe a traveler: at minus twenty degrees, a steaming bowl of this fatty tea restores your soul better than any French wine. I drank hundreds of cups on the road to Lhasa, and I assure you there is no better friend on the High Plateau.
Alexandra David-Néel
Ingredients
  • Compressed black tea (Yunnan brick tea)one large broken piece (bitter and tannic base)
  • Yak butter (often slightly rancid)a good knob per bowl (fat, creaminess)
  • Rock salta pinch (seasoning)
  • Boiled spring wateras needed (infusion)
How it was made : Tea was churned in a long wooden cylinder, the dongmo, using a piston. The compressed tea brick also served as currency on Himalayan trade routes. The butter, often kept for weeks, developed a sour taste that Tibetan palates appreciated.
Sources : Alexandra David-Néel, Voyage d'une Parisienne à Lhassa, Plon, 1927 · Alexandra David-Néel, Mystiques et magiciens du Tibet, Plon, 1929

See also