flipGolden Chicken Soup with Vermicelli
Golden Chicken Soup with Vermicelli
Why this dish? Chicken soup, affectionately nicknamed 'Jewish penicillin', was the universal remedy of Ashkenazi families. One can easily imagine it brought to a convalescing Dreyfus, whose health was shattered by years of isolation on Devil's Island.
A clear, golden broth, long-simmered from a whole hen, carrots and leeks, served piping hot over a nest of fine vermicelli. Simple, comforting, deeply flavorful.
When one of us was bedridden, it was this broth that was brought before any apothecary's remedy. An old hen, carrots, a leek, and much patience at the corner of the stove: it must turn golden slowly, absorb all the strength of the fowl. We skimmed it carefully, strained it clear, and poured it steaming over a few strands of vermicelli. Believe me, it brought color back to the weariest.
- •Hen (spent laying hen) — one (base of the broth)
- •Carrots — several (sweetness and color)
- •Leek — one (flavor)
- •Onion — one, studded with a clove (aromatic base)
- •Fine vermicelli — a handful (garnish)
Golden Chicken Soup with Vermicelli
A clear, golden broth, long-simmered from a whole hen, carrots and leeks, served piping hot over a nest of fine vermicelli. Simple, comforting, deeply flavorful.
Why this dish? Chicken soup, affectionately nicknamed 'Jewish penicillin', was the universal remedy of Ashkenazi families. One can easily imagine it brought to a convalescing Dreyfus, whose health was shattered by years of isolation on Devil's Island.
When one of us was bedridden, it was this broth that was brought before any apothecary's remedy. An old hen, carrots, a leek, and much patience at the corner of the stove: it must turn golden slowly, absorb all the strength of the fowl. We skimmed it carefully, strained it clear, and poured it steaming over a few strands of vermicelli. Believe me, it brought color back to the weariest.
Ingredients (period version)
- Hen (spent laying hen) — one (base of the broth)
- Carrots — several (sweetness and color)
- Leek — one (flavor)
- Onion — one, studded with a clove (aromatic base)
- Fine vermicelli — a handful (garnish)
Ingredients
- Stewing hen (or chicken thighs + carcass) — 1.5 kg (broth)
- Carrots — 3 (sweetness)
- Leek — 1 (aromatic)
- Onion studded with 2 cloves — 1 (flavor)
- Celery stalk — 1 (base)
- Fine vermicelli (angel hair) — 100 g (garnish)
- Salt, peppercorns, parsley — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Place the hen in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring slowly to a simmer and skim carefully.
- Add carrots, leek, clove-studded onion, celery, peppercorns and salt.
- Cook at a very gentle simmer for 2.5 to 3 hours, without boiling, to keep the broth clear.
- Strain the broth through a fine sieve; reserve the hen meat and carrots.
- Cook the vermicelli for a few minutes in the hot broth.
- Serve the golden broth over the vermicelli, with some shredded chicken, carrot rounds and chopped parsley.
How it was made : An older hen, unsuitable for roasting but ideal for giving a broth rich in collagen and flavor, was chosen. The thin layer of golden fat on the surface (schmaltz) was a sign of a good broth, not a flaw.
The contemporary twist : Some Knepfle (small Alsatian dumplings) or matzo balls (kneidlach) instead of vermicelli, for a nod between Alsace and Ashkenazi tradition.
Sources : Joan Nathan, Jewish Cooking in America · Ashkenazi culinary tradition (Shabbat chicken soup)
Alfred Dreyfus · Charactorium
