flipIonian Kykeon
Ionian Kykeon
Why this dish? Born in Ionia, at Clazomenae, Anaxagoras led a life of intellectual travel, from the Hellespont to Athens and finally Lampsacus, where he ended his days. The kykeon, a mixture of diluted barley and fermented liquid, was the restorative drink of the walker and the hurried thinker: it was drunk without sitting down, standing, to regain strength.
A thick, nourishing drink of toasted barley mixed with water and an acidic liquid, flavored with herbs. Halfway between a beverage and a meal, it is the ancestor of the Greek world's 'liquid breakfast'.
Before the Sun-stone climbs to its highest, I drink this, standing, as the seafaring men of my native Clazomenae do: ground barley, thrown into water, sharpened with a little sour milk or wine, and mint crushed between the fingers. Stir it well, for the kykeon, if you do not agitate it, separates — just as all things once separated from the primordial mixture, under the impulse of Intelligence. Drink it and walk: a light man thinks more clearly.
- •Toasted barley flour (alphita) — a handful (nourishing base)
- •Spring water — a bowl (liquid)
- •Curdled milk or whey — a splash (fermented acidity)
- •Mint (or pennyroyal) — a few leaves (flavor)
- •Honey — to taste (optional sweetener)
Ionian Kykeon
A thick, nourishing drink of toasted barley mixed with water and an acidic liquid, flavored with herbs. Halfway between a beverage and a meal, it is the ancestor of the Greek world's 'liquid breakfast'.
Why this dish? Born in Ionia, at Clazomenae, Anaxagoras led a life of intellectual travel, from the Hellespont to Athens and finally Lampsacus, where he ended his days. The kykeon, a mixture of diluted barley and fermented liquid, was the restorative drink of the walker and the hurried thinker: it was drunk without sitting down, standing, to regain strength.
Before the Sun-stone climbs to its highest, I drink this, standing, as the seafaring men of my native Clazomenae do: ground barley, thrown into water, sharpened with a little sour milk or wine, and mint crushed between the fingers. Stir it well, for the kykeon, if you do not agitate it, separates — just as all things once separated from the primordial mixture, under the impulse of Intelligence. Drink it and walk: a light man thinks more clearly.
Ingredients (period version)
- Toasted barley flour (alphita) — a handful (nourishing base)
- Spring water — a bowl (liquid)
- Curdled milk or whey — a splash (fermented acidity)
- Mint (or pennyroyal) — a few leaves (flavor)
- Honey — to taste (optional sweetener)
Ingredients
- Toasted barley flour (or blended flakes) — 3 tbsp (nourishing base)
- Fresh water — 250 ml (liquid)
- Fermented milk / whey (or yogurt thinned with water) — 3 tbsp (fermented acidity)
- Fresh mint — 5 leaves (flavor)
- Honey — 1 tsp (optional sweetener)
Method
- Briefly toast the barley flour in a dry pan if raw, then let cool.
- In a bowl, whisk the flour into cold water to avoid lumps.
- Add the fermented milk (or thinned yogurt) for acidity, and honey if desired.
- Crush the mint leaves between your fingers and stir them in.
- Beat vigorously just before drinking: the kykeon separates when left to rest.
- Drink immediately, cold, without letting it sit.
How it was made : The kykeon (from kykáô, 'to mix') appears as early as Homer: Circe serves one to Odysseus, Hecamede prepares one in the Iliad with wine, barley, and grated cheese. A meal-drink par excellence, it had to be constantly stirred because the barley would settle. A ritual version, flavored with pennyroyal mint, was drunk during the Eleusinian Mysteries — but we will refrain from reproducing that rite here: this is merely its profane and restorative cousin.
The contemporary twist : Serve it in a tall glass like an 'ancient smoothie', with a mint leaf on top, and play on the warm/cold contrast depending on the season.
Anaxagoras of Clazomenae · Charactorium
