A black coffee, strong and fragrant, lightly sweetened and lifted with a zest, as savored in the Venetian cafés where music, librettos, and world news were discussed.

Why this dish? Venice was one of the first European cities to taste coffee, and in Vivaldi's time the cafés of St. Mark's Square — including the famous Florian, opened in 1720 — were the beating heart of musical and social life. An opera composer would make commissions and friendships there over a steaming cup.

Do me the honor of taking a seat: in Venice, nothing serious is done without a cup of coffee. This black liquor brought by our ships from the Levant has changed our customs — no opera commission is concluded except at the counter, amid the buzz of conversation. I like it strong, barely sweetened, with a hint of zest to lift its bitterness: it sharpens the mind as a good coffee sharpens the composer's pen.

How it was made : Coffee arrived in Venice in the 16th century through trade with the Ottoman Empire; by the 18th century, the city had dozens of *botteghe del caffè*. It was then prepared by decoction or direct infusion, more rustic than modern espresso, and the citrus zest was a common touch.

The contemporary twist : Served in a small cup with a square of polenta biscuit, a nod to the sweet *cicheti* of the *bacari*.

Antonio Vivaldi · Charactorium