Airag (koumiss) — fermented mare's milk
Mare's milk beaten for hours in a leather sack until it ferments: it becomes tart, slightly fizzy, and mildly alcoholic. Fresh and thirst-quenching, it is the liquid heart of the steppe.
Mare's milk beaten for hours in a leather sack until it ferments: it becomes tart, slightly fizzy, and mildly alcoholic. Fresh and thirst-quenching, it is the liquid heart of the steppe.
Drink, and let your throat know the true taste of the steppe! Every day we milk the mares ten times, and the milk we pour into the leather sack hung near the entrance. Whoever crosses the threshold gives the churn a stroke as they pass — a thousand strokes make good airag, sour and alive on the tongue. Before the first sip, I toss some to the sky and to the fire, for the Eternal Heaven that keeps our herds.
- •Fresh mare's milk — full sack (base)
- •Koumiss starter from the day before — a bit left in the sack (ferment)
Airag (koumiss) — fermented mare's milk
Mare's milk beaten for hours in a leather sack until it ferments: it becomes tart, slightly fizzy, and mildly alcoholic. Fresh and thirst-quenching, it is the liquid heart of the steppe.
Why this dish? Koumiss was THE drink of the Mongol court, offered to guests, poured out for spirits, and served at great gatherings. As principal empress, Börte presided over these ritual sharings where the sky was saluted before drinking.
Drink, and let your throat know the true taste of the steppe! Every day we milk the mares ten times, and the milk we pour into the leather sack hung near the entrance. Whoever crosses the threshold gives the churn a stroke as they pass — a thousand strokes make good airag, sour and alive on the tongue. Before the first sip, I toss some to the sky and to the fire, for the Eternal Heaven that keeps our herds.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh mare's milk — full sack (base)
- Koumiss starter from the day before — a bit left in the sack (ferment)
Ingredients
- Mare's milk (or, failing that, whole unpasteurized cow's milk) — 1.5 L (base)
- Plain milk kefir (substitute ferment) — 3 tbsp (live ferment)
- Warm water — 100 ml (adjustment (richer cow's milk))
Method
- Pour the lukewarm milk (never boiled) into a large clean jar. With cow's milk, dilute with a little water.
- Add the ferment (kefir), mix.
- Cover with a cloth and leave at room temperature for 24 to 36 hours, beating vigorously several times a day with a spoon.
- The liquid becomes frothy, tart, and slightly fizzy: strain.
- Serve chilled. Keep a little as starter for the next batch.
How it was made : Koumiss is attested by medieval travelers (William of Rubruck describes its making among the Mongols in the 13th century). Continuous beating in the leather sack prevented curdling and promoted lactic and alcoholic fermentation. The family version is only very mildly alcoholic.
The contemporary twist : Serve in a small blue enamel bowl, well shaken, as a 'riders' kefir' — a refreshing tart summer drink.
Sources : Guillaume de Rubrouck, Voyage dans l'empire mongol (récit de voyage, XIIIe s.)
Börte · Charactorium
