Cocada, the coconut sweet that travels
A confection of grated coconut cooked long with sugar until it forms small golden, sticky mounds, sometimes flavored with lime. A street treat that keeps for several days without refrigeration.
A confection of grated coconut cooked long with sugar until it forms small golden, sticky mounds, sometimes flavored with lime. A street treat that keeps for several days without refrigeration.
Cocadas were the reward of childhood, laid out in little golden mounds on the baiana's tray. The coconut and sugar cook for a long time, until they caramelize, and you can keep them in your pocket, take them on a journey — the sweetness doesn't melt, it accompanies you. Even on the other side of the ocean, I only had to bite into one to hear, deep down, the sound of Bahia's waves. It's small, it's sweet, and it comforts.
- •Fresh grated coconut — the flesh of one coconut (base of the treat)
- •Sugar — in generous parts (cooking and preservation)
- •Lime — a zest (flavor (optional))
Cocada, the coconut sweet that travels
A confection of grated coconut cooked long with sugar until it forms small golden, sticky mounds, sometimes flavored with lime. A street treat that keeps for several days without refrigeration.
Why this dish? On the baiana's tabuleiro, next to the savory fritters, the cocadas shine. Very sweet, they keep and travel — the portable sweetness of Bahia that Caetano carried, in memory, even into his London exile.
Cocadas were the reward of childhood, laid out in little golden mounds on the baiana's tray. The coconut and sugar cook for a long time, until they caramelize, and you can keep them in your pocket, take them on a journey — the sweetness doesn't melt, it accompanies you. Even on the other side of the ocean, I only had to bite into one to hear, deep down, the sound of Bahia's waves. It's small, it's sweet, and it comforts.
Ingredients (period version)
- Fresh grated coconut — the flesh of one coconut (base of the treat)
- Sugar — in generous parts (cooking and preservation)
- Lime — a zest (flavor (optional))
Ingredients
- Grated coconut (fresh preferred, otherwise dried rehydrated) — 250 g (base of the treat)
- Sugar — 250 g (cooking and preservation)
- Water — 120 ml (initial syrup)
- Lime zest — 1 (flavor (optional))
Method
- In a saucepan, make a syrup with the sugar and water.
- Add the grated coconut and lime zest, mix.
- Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture thickens, turns golden and no longer sticks.
- Drop small mounds with a spoon onto parchment paper.
- Let cool and harden before eating or packing for travel.
How it was made : Inherited from Portuguese sugar techniques and the abundance of coconut on the Brazilian coast, cocada exists in white, golden (caramelized) or flavored versions. Very rich in sugar, it keeps naturally, making it a longtime sailor's and traveler's sweet.
The contemporary twist : 'Preta' version, well caramelized, rolled into bite-sized balls and served warm with a pinch of fleur de sel, a modern sweet-salty contrast.
Caetano Veloso · Charactorium