A deep green purée of mustard leaves and spinach, long-simmered, crowned with a knob of butter, served with rustic cornflour flatbreads. The slightly bitter taste of mustard greens, softened by butter, is the signature of Punjab's winter.

Why this dish? Jab We Met wanders through Punjab, in Bhatinda, among the yellow mustard fields. This is the king of Punjabi winters, the dish prepared when the whole family gathers; you cannot love this region without dipping a piece of corn roti into this steaming saag.

When you drive through Punjab in January, the mustard fields blaze yellow to the horizon — I set my camera there and never forgot it. The saag, you don't rush it: you let the leaves soften for hours, you mash them, you stir them again. On a hot corn roti, you place a big lump of white butter, some jaggery on the side, maybe a raw onion. Eat it with your hands, near the fire — it's a dish that brings people together, like a song everyone knows.

How it was made : A classic peasant dish of Punjab, the saag used to simmer for hours in an earthen pot over a fire, often made in large quantities in winter and reheated over several days — it only got better. Corn flour became widespread in the region after maize arrived in India, becoming the typical winter bread of Punjab.

The contemporary twist : Serve with a slice of pickled red onion and a small bowl of whipped yogurt; name the plate 'Bhatinda Fields' as a tribute to the film.

Imtiaz Ali · Charactorium