flipNational coffee with barley and chicory
National coffee with barley and chicory
Why this dish? Real coffee almost completely disappeared from French cups as early as 1940. For a network man like Moulin, who works late, writes his reports, and keeps his clandestine appointments at all hours, the 'national coffee' of roasted barley and chicory is the bitter but comforting companion of Resistance nights.
A dark decoction of roasted barley and chicory root, which mimics the bitterness and colour of coffee without the bean. The hot cup shared by French people when real coffee no longer arrives.
Coffee? You must be joking — it's been ages since a single bean got through. So we make do: we roast barley in a pan until dark brown, add chicory, and draw from all that a black, bitter brew we call, mockingly, national coffee. It fools no one, but it warms the hands and keeps the eyes open when the night must be used for work. Drink it boiling, without sugar since there's hardly any, and may it give you heart for the task.
- •Barley — a handful (roasted base)
- •Chicory root — a little (bitterness and colour)
- •Water — a bowl (infusion)
National coffee with barley and chicory
A dark decoction of roasted barley and chicory root, which mimics the bitterness and colour of coffee without the bean. The hot cup shared by French people when real coffee no longer arrives.
Why this dish? Real coffee almost completely disappeared from French cups as early as 1940. For a network man like Moulin, who works late, writes his reports, and keeps his clandestine appointments at all hours, the 'national coffee' of roasted barley and chicory is the bitter but comforting companion of Resistance nights.
Coffee? You must be joking — it's been ages since a single bean got through. So we make do: we roast barley in a pan until dark brown, add chicory, and draw from all that a black, bitter brew we call, mockingly, national coffee. It fools no one, but it warms the hands and keeps the eyes open when the night must be used for work. Drink it boiling, without sugar since there's hardly any, and may it give you heart for the task.
Ingredients (period version)
- Barley — a handful (roasted base)
- Chicory root — a little (bitterness and colour)
- Water — a bowl (infusion)
Ingredients
- Barley grains (or hulled barley) — 3 tbsp (roasted base)
- Soluble chicory or dried root — 1 to 2 tsp (bitterness and colour)
- Water — 500 ml (infusion)
Method
- Dry-roast the barley grains in a pan over medium heat, stirring until they turn deep brown and fragrant (be careful not to burn them).
- Coarsely crush the roasted barley with a pestle or in a grinder.
- Bring the water to a simmer, add the barley and chicory, and let infuse for 8 to 10 minutes.
- Strain and serve very hot, without sugar (a scarce commodity at the time) or with a drop of milk if available.
How it was made : From 1940, coffee was rationed and then replaced by substitutes: barley, acorns, chicory root, sometimes roasted chickpeas. Chicory, already common in the North, became national. 'National coffee' specifically referred to these official ersatz mixtures distributed on tickets.
The contemporary twist : A cup of barley-chicory frothed like a cappuccino, sprinkled with roasted chicory: a 'fake coffee' turned trendy caffeine-free drink, an ironic return of a wartime necessity.
Jean Moulin · Charactorium
