flipThandai of Kashi
Thandai of Kashi
Why this dish? Lakshmi Bai grew up in Varanasi (Kashi), where thandai is an iconic drink of temples and festivals, especially around Holi and Maha Shivaratri. This cool drink of almonds, seeds, and spices evokes the young future Rani's years on the Ganges ghats.
A creamy cold milk, ground with almonds, melon and poppy seeds, fennel, cardamom, pepper, and saffron, sweetened with jaggery and perfumed with rose water. Refreshing, mild, and delicately spiced.
Return with me to the ghats of Kashi, where the Ganga smokes in the morning and where I was a child. For great festivals, we pound in the mortar the almonds, melon seeds, poppy, fennel, and cardamom until we get a pale cream that we dilute in fresh milk. A few threads of saffron, a drop of rose water, a pepper to awaken the blood — and we drink it chilled, in the shade, when the Indian sun weighs like armor. It is the coolness of the gods, sweet and sharp at once; drink slowly, and may Kashi bless you.
- •Milk — a pitcher (base)
- •Almonds — a handful (creaminess)
- •Melon seeds and poppy seeds — a little of each (binder, coolness)
- •Fennel seeds — a spoonful (refreshing aroma)
- •Cardamom, pepper — a few seeds (spices)
- •Saffron — a few threads (color, aroma)
- •Jaggery or sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- •Rose water — a drop (floral aroma)
Thandai of Kashi
A creamy cold milk, ground with almonds, melon and poppy seeds, fennel, cardamom, pepper, and saffron, sweetened with jaggery and perfumed with rose water. Refreshing, mild, and delicately spiced.
Why this dish? Lakshmi Bai grew up in Varanasi (Kashi), where thandai is an iconic drink of temples and festivals, especially around Holi and Maha Shivaratri. This cool drink of almonds, seeds, and spices evokes the young future Rani's years on the Ganges ghats.
Return with me to the ghats of Kashi, where the Ganga smokes in the morning and where I was a child. For great festivals, we pound in the mortar the almonds, melon seeds, poppy, fennel, and cardamom until we get a pale cream that we dilute in fresh milk. A few threads of saffron, a drop of rose water, a pepper to awaken the blood — and we drink it chilled, in the shade, when the Indian sun weighs like armor. It is the coolness of the gods, sweet and sharp at once; drink slowly, and may Kashi bless you.
Ingredients (period version)
- Milk — a pitcher (base)
- Almonds — a handful (creaminess)
- Melon seeds and poppy seeds — a little of each (binder, coolness)
- Fennel seeds — a spoonful (refreshing aroma)
- Cardamom, pepper — a few seeds (spices)
- Saffron — a few threads (color, aroma)
- Jaggery or sugar — to taste (sweetness)
- Rose water — a drop (floral aroma)
Ingredients
- Whole milk (or almond milk) — 750 ml (base)
- Blanched almonds — 30 g (creaminess)
- Poppy seeds — 1 tbsp (binder)
- Fennel seeds — 1 tsp (aroma)
- Green cardamom — 4 pods (spice)
- Black peppercorns — 4 (mild heat)
- Saffron — 1 pinch (color)
- Jaggery or sugar — 4 tbsp (sweetness)
- Rose water — 1 tsp (aroma)
Method
- Soak almonds, poppy seeds, and fennel in a little warm water for 2 hours.
- Grind the soaked mixture with cardamom, pepper, saffron, and a little milk until smooth.
- Dilute this paste into the remaining cold milk, add sugar/jaggery, whisk.
- Strain through a fine cloth for a silky texture (optional).
- Flavor with rose water, refrigerate, and serve well chilled.
How it was made : Thandai (from thanda, 'cold') is an ancient North Indian drink, associated with Varanasi and Shiva festivals; it was ground in a stone mortar and served in copper or earthen cups. Saffron and almonds made it a festive drink, more precious than everyday water.
The contemporary twist : Served ice-cold in a frosted glass, sprinkled with dried rose petals and crushed pistachios — a very photogenic 'rose gold milk'.
Sources : K. T. Achaya, Indian Food: A Historical Companion, Oxford University Press
Lakshmi Bai · Charactorium
