A thick chocolate beaten until frothy with a moussoir, flavored with cinnamon and barely sweetened. The iconic drink of the cafés where comedies were born.

Why this dish? Marivaux wrote and debated in Parisian cafés, especially Le Procope, hotbeds of intellect where hot chocolate flowed freely. This drink, imported and then fashionable in the 18th century, directly accompanied his life as a journalist and playwright.

At Le Procope, where we remade the world between witty remarks, I treated myself to a chocolate beaten in the chocolatière until covered with a light froth. It must be very hot, perfumed with a hint of cinnamon, and not too sweet, for bitterness has its grace, like a coquette who makes herself desired. I would sip a cup, pen in hand, and ideas came of their own accord.

How it was made : Chocolate was prepared in a *chocolatière*, a lidded pot with a *moussoir* (notched stick) spun between the palms to froth the drink. It was drunk thicker and more bitter than today, flavored with cinnamon, sometimes vanilla. Originating from the Americas, it was perfectly common in the 18th century.

The contemporary twist : A grating of orange zest over the foam, a nod to the perfumes of the Regent's salons.

Marivaux · Charactorium