Evening Cioppino to Share
A generous seafood stew simmered in a tomato-white wine broth fragrant with garlic and fennel. Crab, mussels, clams, shrimp, and fish chunks are plunged in, and you eat noisily with sourdough bread to soak up the juice.
A generous seafood stew simmered in a tomato-white wine broth fragrant with garlic and fennel. Crab, mussels, clams, shrimp, and fish chunks are plunged in, and you eat noisily with sourdough bread to soak up the juice.
Cioppino is my team dish — you put it in the middle and everyone tinkers with their portion, exactly like building a system: components that simmer together until they become something greater than the sum. We'd go down to the docks to buy live crab, come back, throw everything into the pot with wine and garlic. Roll up your sleeves, grab your sourdough, and forget about your shirt — a good dinner, like a good program, should overflow a bit.
- •Dungeness crab — one, in pieces (centrepiece)
- •Mussels and clams — a basin (seafood)
- •Shrimp — a generous handful (seafood)
- •Firm white fish — a few fillets (flesh)
- •Tomatoes — in abundance (broth base)
- •Dry white wine — a large glass (tangy deglazing)
- •Garlic, onion, fennel — in profusion (aromatics)
- •San Francisco sourdough bread — one large loaf (accompaniment)
Evening Cioppino to Share
A generous seafood stew simmered in a tomato-white wine broth fragrant with garlic and fennel. Crab, mussels, clams, shrimp, and fish chunks are plunged in, and you eat noisily with sourdough bread to soak up the juice.
Why this dish? An hour from Palo Alto, San Francisco and its docks overflow with fresh crab and fish. Cioppino — an Italian-American fisherman's stew from North Beach — is the dish brought out to celebrate a breakthrough or gather the team: a large pot in the center of the table, rolled-up sleeves, bread for sopping. Everything Kay loved about collaborative work transposed to dinner.
Cioppino is my team dish — you put it in the middle and everyone tinkers with their portion, exactly like building a system: components that simmer together until they become something greater than the sum. We'd go down to the docks to buy live crab, come back, throw everything into the pot with wine and garlic. Roll up your sleeves, grab your sourdough, and forget about your shirt — a good dinner, like a good program, should overflow a bit.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dungeness crab — one, in pieces (centrepiece)
- Mussels and clams — a basin (seafood)
- Shrimp — a generous handful (seafood)
- Firm white fish — a few fillets (flesh)
- Tomatoes — in abundance (broth base)
- Dry white wine — a large glass (tangy deglazing)
- Garlic, onion, fennel — in profusion (aromatics)
- San Francisco sourdough bread — one large loaf (accompaniment)
Ingredients
- Crab (claws and body) or brown crab — 1 (≈800 g), in pieces (centrepiece)
- Mussels — 500 g, cleaned (seafood)
- Clams — 500 g, purged (seafood)
- Raw shrimp — 250 g, peeled (seafood)
- Firm white fish fillet (cod, monkfish) — 400 g, in large cubes (flesh)
- Crushed tomatoes — 1 can (400 g) (broth base)
- Dry white wine — 200 ml (tangy deglazing)
- Onion + fennel bulb — 1 each, sliced (aromatics)
- Garlic — 4 cloves, minced (aromatic)
- Fish stock or water — 500 ml (liquid)
- Olive oil, parsley, chili flakes, salt — to taste (seasoning)
- Sourdough bread — 1 loaf (accompaniment)
Method
- Sauté onion, fennel, and garlic in olive oil until softened, without browning.
- Pour in the white wine, let reduce by half, then add tomatoes and stock; season and simmer for 20 min.
- First add the crab and clams (the ones that take longest to open), cover for 5 min.
- Add mussels, shrimp, and fish cubes; cover for another 5–7 min, until shellfish open and fish is opaque.
- Discard any unopened shellfish, sprinkle with parsley.
- Serve boiling hot in a large pot at the center of the table, with grilled sourdough bread for dipping.
How it was made : Cioppino originated in the late 19th century among Ligurian and Sicilian fishermen in San Francisco's North Beach, who would 'chip in' a share of their day's catch into a communal pot. The broth varied depending on what came up in the nets — a dish without a fixed recipe, collaborative by essence.
The contemporary twist : Served in a hollowed-out sourdough bread loaf as an edible bowl, like at the clam chowder bars of Fisherman's Wharf.
Alan Kay · Charactorium