A fluid compote of lingonberries or cranberries, barely thickened, slightly tart and sweetened with honey. Drunk warm in a bowl or eaten with a spoon: gentle, invigorating, comforting.

Why this dish? Catherine, who ate moderately and loved fruits, appreciated the berries of the northern forests. Kissel, halfway between a hot drink and a dessert, was considered comforting and good for the stomach — a mild snack taken in convalescence or cold weather.

I leave the splendors of the table to my courtiers; for me, a fruit often suffices. When the cold bites or the stomach complains, nothing beats a kissel of lingonberries from my forests, barely thickened, warm and sweetened with a dash of honey. Burst your berries, strain them, thicken just a little and drink it from a bowl held between your hands — you will find more comfort in it than in many remedies from my doctors, who cost me a great deal and relieve me very little.

How it was made : Kissel is one of the oldest Russian desserts; originally thickened with fermented rye or oats (hence its name, from 'kisly', sour), it later became fruit-based with starch. It was considered nourishing and soothing, given to the sick and to children.

The contemporary twist : Serve it warm over a quenelle of smetana or thick cream: the tart-creamy contrast makes it a very modern bistro dessert.

Sources : W. Pokhlebkin, A History of Russian Cuisine

Catherine II of Russia · Charactorium