Lingonberry Kissel, to Sustain and Refresh
A fluid compote of lingonberries or cranberries, barely thickened, slightly tart and sweetened with honey. Drunk warm in a bowl or eaten with a spoon: gentle, invigorating, comforting.
A fluid compote of lingonberries or cranberries, barely thickened, slightly tart and sweetened with honey. Drunk warm in a bowl or eaten with a spoon: gentle, invigorating, comforting.
I leave the splendors of the table to my courtiers; for me, a fruit often suffices. When the cold bites or the stomach complains, nothing beats a kissel of lingonberries from my forests, barely thickened, warm and sweetened with a dash of honey. Burst your berries, strain them, thicken just a little and drink it from a bowl held between your hands — you will find more comfort in it than in many remedies from my doctors, who cost me a great deal and relieve me very little.
- •Wild lingonberries or cranberries — a good bowl (tart fruit)
- •Honey — to taste (sweetness)
- •Water — enough to cover (cooking)
- •Flour or starch — a little (light thickener)
Lingonberry Kissel, to Sustain and Refresh
A fluid compote of lingonberries or cranberries, barely thickened, slightly tart and sweetened with honey. Drunk warm in a bowl or eaten with a spoon: gentle, invigorating, comforting.
Why this dish? Catherine, who ate moderately and loved fruits, appreciated the berries of the northern forests. Kissel, halfway between a hot drink and a dessert, was considered comforting and good for the stomach — a mild snack taken in convalescence or cold weather.
I leave the splendors of the table to my courtiers; for me, a fruit often suffices. When the cold bites or the stomach complains, nothing beats a kissel of lingonberries from my forests, barely thickened, warm and sweetened with a dash of honey. Burst your berries, strain them, thicken just a little and drink it from a bowl held between your hands — you will find more comfort in it than in many remedies from my doctors, who cost me a great deal and relieve me very little.
Ingredients (period version)
- Wild lingonberries or cranberries — a good bowl (tart fruit)
- Honey — to taste (sweetness)
- Water — enough to cover (cooking)
- Flour or starch — a little (light thickener)
Ingredients
- Lingonberries or cranberries (fresh or frozen) — 300 g (tart fruit)
- Water — 600 ml (cooking)
- Honey — 3-4 tbsp (sweetness)
- Potato starch — 1.5 tbsp (fluid thickener)
Method
- Bring the berries and water to a boil, let burst for 5 minutes, then strain through a sieve to remove skins.
- Reheat the juice, sweeten with honey to taste.
- Dissolve the starch in a little cold water, stir it in off the high heat; return to heat just until slightly thickened.
- The kissel should remain fluid, barely coating. Pour into bowls.
- Serve warm to drink, or chilled to eat with a spoon.
How it was made : Kissel is one of the oldest Russian desserts; originally thickened with fermented rye or oats (hence its name, from 'kisly', sour), it later became fruit-based with starch. It was considered nourishing and soothing, given to the sick and to children.
The contemporary twist : Serve it warm over a quenelle of smetana or thick cream: the tart-creamy contrast makes it a very modern bistro dessert.
Sources : W. Pokhlebkin, A History of Russian Cuisine
Catherine II of Russia · Charactorium