Oranges and the Aiguade Lemonade (Remedy Against Scurvy)
A straightforward, tangy drink: lemon or orange juice diluted with fresh water, barely sweetened with sugar. Drunk cold at the port of call, it was as much a pleasure as a remedy for bodies exhausted by months of salted provisions.
A straightforward, tangy drink: lemon or orange juice diluted with fresh water, barely sweetened with sugar. Drunk cold at the port of call, it was as much a pleasure as a remedy for bodies exhausted by months of salted provisions.
You who have never seen a man lose his teeth at sea, you do not know the worth of an orange. As soon as we touched land, I ordered that we take on lemons, oranges, all fresh greens, and press their juice into the water casks. Alas, the disease was faster than our stops, and it took me before I could see France again. Drink this lemonade, and think of those who were not so lucky.
- •Lemons and oranges (from the port of call) — as many as could be gathered (antiscorbutic virtue, acidity)
- •Fresh water — to dilute (rehydration)
- •Sugar or honey — a little (sweeten)
Oranges and the Aiguade Lemonade (Remedy Against Scurvy)
A straightforward, tangy drink: lemon or orange juice diluted with fresh water, barely sweetened with sugar. Drunk cold at the port of call, it was as much a pleasure as a remedy for bodies exhausted by months of salted provisions.
Why this dish? Scurvy was the terror of the expedition — it claimed d'Entrecasteaux himself at sea in 1793. At every landfall, they rushed for fresh fruit and citrus, whose power to heal bleeding gums was suspected, if not yet fully understood.
You who have never seen a man lose his teeth at sea, you do not know the worth of an orange. As soon as we touched land, I ordered that we take on lemons, oranges, all fresh greens, and press their juice into the water casks. Alas, the disease was faster than our stops, and it took me before I could see France again. Drink this lemonade, and think of those who were not so lucky.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lemons and oranges (from the port of call) — as many as could be gathered (antiscorbutic virtue, acidity)
- Fresh water — to dilute (rehydration)
- Sugar or honey — a little (sweeten)
Ingredients
- Lemons — 3 (acidity, vitamin C)
- Orange — 2 (sweetness and acidity)
- Fresh water — 1 L (drink base)
- Sugar or honey — 2 to 4 tablespoons (to taste) (balance)
- Mint leaves — a few (optional) (freshness)
Method
- Juice the lemons and oranges.
- Mix the juice with the fresh water.
- Dissolve the sugar (or honey) while stirring; adjust acidity to taste.
- Optionally add a few crushed mint leaves.
- Serve well chilled — it's best after a meal of preserved foods!
How it was made : In the 18th century, it was empirically known that fresh fruit and citrus relieved scurvy, though the cause (vitamin C deficiency) was unknown. The British institutionalized lemon juice; the French relied mainly on port calls and embarking fruits, watercress, and sometimes sauerkraut. On d'Entrecasteaux's expedition, the lack of sufficient stops proved fatal to several men, including the admiral.
The contemporary twist : Pour over crushed ice with a spiral-cut zest and call it the 'Aiguade Cure': the lemonade that (almost) saved sailors.
Sources : James Lind, A Treatise of the Scurvy (1753) · Histoire de la lutte contre le scorbut dans les marines du XVIIIᵉ siècle
d'Entrecasteaux · Charactorium
