flipErwtensoep (snert) — Dutch split pea soup
Erwtensoep (snert) — Dutch split pea soup
Why this dish? Hertzsprung spent a large part of his career at Leiden Observatory in the Netherlands. Erwtensoep, a thick pea soup made the day before and improving with rest, was the Dutch winter dish — one that simmers while you work and sticks to the ribs after a cold night under the dome.
A split pea soup so thick that a spoon stands upright in it, simmered with pork shank, celeriac, leek and smoked sausage. It is cooked the day before: it only gets better reheated.
In the Netherlands, I learned that real snert is prepared a day in advance — they say there that the spoon must be able to stand upright, otherwise it is not worthy of the name. The peas slowly melt with the shank until they become a thick purée, and the smoked sausage goes in at the last moment. After a long night in Leiden, cold in the bones, a bowl of this sets you right better than any theory. I confess: I ended up preferring it to the herring of my childhood.
- •Green split peas — a large measure (base)
- •Pork shank (and bone) — one piece (stock and meat)
- •Celeriac and celery stalks — equal parts (aromatic vegetable)
- •Leek and onion — according to the pot (aromatics)
- •Smoked sausage (rookworst) — one (smoky and umami)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Erwtensoep (snert) — Dutch split pea soup
A split pea soup so thick that a spoon stands upright in it, simmered with pork shank, celeriac, leek and smoked sausage. It is cooked the day before: it only gets better reheated.
Why this dish? Hertzsprung spent a large part of his career at Leiden Observatory in the Netherlands. Erwtensoep, a thick pea soup made the day before and improving with rest, was the Dutch winter dish — one that simmers while you work and sticks to the ribs after a cold night under the dome.
In the Netherlands, I learned that real snert is prepared a day in advance — they say there that the spoon must be able to stand upright, otherwise it is not worthy of the name. The peas slowly melt with the shank until they become a thick purée, and the smoked sausage goes in at the last moment. After a long night in Leiden, cold in the bones, a bowl of this sets you right better than any theory. I confess: I ended up preferring it to the herring of my childhood.
Ingredients (period version)
- Green split peas — a large measure (base)
- Pork shank (and bone) — one piece (stock and meat)
- Celeriac and celery stalks — equal parts (aromatic vegetable)
- Leek and onion — according to the pot (aromatics)
- Smoked sausage (rookworst) — one (smoky and umami)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Green split peas — 500 g (base)
- Smoked or salted pork shank — 400 g (stock and meat)
- Celeriac — 1/4, diced (aromatic vegetable)
- Celery stalks — 2 ribs (aromatic)
- Leek — 1, sliced (aromatic)
- Onion — 1, chopped (aromatic)
- Smoked sausage (rookworst or Montbéliard) — 1 (approx. 250 g) (smoky and umami)
- Water — 2 liters (liquid)
- Salt and pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Rinse the split peas. Put them in a large pot with the pork shank and water; bring to a simmer, skimming off any foam.
- Simmer covered for about 1 hour, until the peas begin to break down.
- Add celeriac, celery, leek and onion; continue for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
- Remove the shank, shred the meat and return it to the soup. Poach the smoked sausage for 15 minutes, slice it and add it.
- Season with salt and pepper. Ideally, let cool and reheat the next day: the soup thickens and gains flavor. Serve with buttered rye bread.
How it was made : Erwtensoep, nicknamed "snert", is the national winter dish of the Netherlands, traditionally eaten after skating on frozen canals. The tradition of letting it rest overnight to thicken also made it a practical reserve: a large cauldron fed the household for several days.
The contemporary twist : A drizzle of smoked oil and a few toasted rye croutons to recall the frozen canal and the Leiden dome.
Ejnar Hertzsprung · Charactorium
