flipErwtensoep (snert), split pea soup
Erwtensoep (snert), split pea soup
Why this dish? Bread, vegetables, basic staples shared with housemates in the big house on Gabriël Metsustraat: pea soup is the Dutch dish that feeds many with little, simmering all afternoon on the communal fire while Etty writes her diary.
The national soup of the Netherlands: so thick they say a spoon should stand up in it. Split peas melted into a velvety cream, scented with leek and celeriac, warming the damp northern winters.
This evening I let the peas simmer gently, and the whole house smells of that earthy, leeky fragrance. You need patience — real soup cannot be rushed, it thickens slowly, like certain thoughts in me. We eat it together, around the big table, and even when there is almost nothing else, this steaming bowl is enough to make the table warm. You'll see: tomorrow it will be even better, because this soup likes to rest a night.
- •Green split peas — a good measure (base, binder)
- •Leek — a few (aromatic)
- •Celeriac — a piece (background flavor)
- •Onion — one (aromatic)
- •Potato — two or three (thickener)
- •Smoked bacon or marrow bone — if available (umami (often omitted under rationing))
Erwtensoep (snert), split pea soup
The national soup of the Netherlands: so thick they say a spoon should stand up in it. Split peas melted into a velvety cream, scented with leek and celeriac, warming the damp northern winters.
Why this dish? Bread, vegetables, basic staples shared with housemates in the big house on Gabriël Metsustraat: pea soup is the Dutch dish that feeds many with little, simmering all afternoon on the communal fire while Etty writes her diary.
This evening I let the peas simmer gently, and the whole house smells of that earthy, leeky fragrance. You need patience — real soup cannot be rushed, it thickens slowly, like certain thoughts in me. We eat it together, around the big table, and even when there is almost nothing else, this steaming bowl is enough to make the table warm. You'll see: tomorrow it will be even better, because this soup likes to rest a night.
Ingredients (period version)
- Green split peas — a good measure (base, binder)
- Leek — a few (aromatic)
- Celeriac — a piece (background flavor)
- Onion — one (aromatic)
- Potato — two or three (thickener)
- Smoked bacon or marrow bone — if available (umami (often omitted under rationing))
Ingredients
- Green split peas — 400 g (base, binder)
- Water — 1.8 L (broth)
- Leeks — 2 (aromatic)
- Celeriac — 150 g (background flavor)
- Onion — 1 large (aromatic)
- Potatoes — 2 medium (thickener)
- Smoked sausage (rookworst), optional — 1 (umami)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Rinse the split peas, put them in a large pot with the cold water. Bring to a simmer and skim off any foam.
- Add the chopped onion and diced celeriac. Simmer covered for 1 hour, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
- Add the diced potatoes and sliced leeks. Continue for 45 minutes, until the peas are completely broken down and the soup is thick.
- If using, poach the smoked sausage in the soup for 15 minutes, remove, slice, and return to the pot.
- Season with salt and pepper. The soup should be dense enough for a spoon to nearly stand upright. Serve piping hot.
- Ideally, let it rest overnight and reheat: the flavor deepens.
How it was made : Erwtensoep has been documented as a popular Dutch dish for centuries, cooked for hours on the stove. Under the Occupation, bacon and sausage were often missing, so the soup was made "lean," entirely from vegetables and peas, its thickness standing in for richness.
The contemporary twist : A spoonful of mustard at serving and a few slices of grilled rye bread on the side, as Dutch winter tradition still holds.
Etty Hillesum · Charactorium
