Surrogaatkoffie, chicory ersatz coffee
A dark, bitter drink made by roasting and then infusing chicory root — the "ersatz" of the war years. No caffeine, but the familiar warmth of a steaming cup and the gesture of a pause.
A dark, bitter drink made by roasting and then infusing chicory root — the "ersatz" of the war years. No caffeine, but the familiar warmth of a steaming cup and the gesture of a pause.
Real coffee has been gone for a long time. So we roast the chicory root until it blackens, and pour boiling water over it — it's bitter, yes, it fools no one, but it's hot, and holding the cup in my hands does me good. I sit by the window, look at the jasmine behind the house, and drink slowly. You learn, you see, to be happy with very little.
- •Dried chicory root — as much as you have (base)
- •Roasted barley or rye (if available) — a little (roundness)
- •Boiling water — as needed (infusion)
Surrogaatkoffie, chicory ersatz coffee
A dark, bitter drink made by roasting and then infusing chicory root — the "ersatz" of the war years. No caffeine, but the familiar warmth of a steaming cup and the gesture of a pause.
Why this dish? Under the Occupation, real coffee disappeared from the Netherlands. It was replaced by roasted chicory root. This bitter brew accompanied Etty's writing hours and conversations in the shared house: the coffee ritual held firm, even without coffee.
Real coffee has been gone for a long time. So we roast the chicory root until it blackens, and pour boiling water over it — it's bitter, yes, it fools no one, but it's hot, and holding the cup in my hands does me good. I sit by the window, look at the jasmine behind the house, and drink slowly. You learn, you see, to be happy with very little.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried chicory root — as much as you have (base)
- Roasted barley or rye (if available) — a little (roundness)
- Boiling water — as needed (infusion)
Ingredients
- Dried chicory root, chopped — 2 tbsp (base)
- Pearl barley (optional) — 1 tbsp (roundness)
- Water — 500 ml (infusion)
- Milk or sugar — to taste (sweetener (often unavailable back then))
Method
- Dry-roast the chicory pieces (and barley if using) in a pan over medium heat, stirring until they darken strongly and smell fragrant — without burning.
- Once cooled, crush coarsely with a pestle.
- Place in a saucepan with the water, bring to a simmer, and let steep for 8 to 10 minutes.
- Strain into a cup. Drink as is, bitter, or sweeten with a little milk or sugar if you have any.
- Serve very hot, like coffee.
How it was made : Chicory ersatz coffee (surrogaat) is widely documented in the Netherlands and occupied Europe during the war, due to the lack of imports. Chicory was roasted at home or bought in compressed blocks; its bitterness vaguely mimicked coffee.
The contemporary twist : Today chicory is making a comeback as a caffeine-free evening drink — the same brew, chosen by desire rather than necessity.
Etty Hillesum · Charactorium