Fillets of river fish salted then dried in the sun and north wind—the most ordinary and essential preserve of the Delta, to be rehydrated and grilled, with a pronounced and deeply umami flavor.

Why this dish? Isis has her great sanctuary at Buto, in the marshes of the Nile Delta, realm of reeds and fishermen—there she concealed Horus. Dried and salted fish was the daily provision there, stored for weeks to last through the flood seasons.

In the marshes of Buto where I hid my son, the river gives fish in abundance. But the sun of Egypt does not forgive: what is not eaten that day must be saved. So the fishermen open the fish, cover it with salt, and offer it to the north wind until it hardens. Thus kept, it feeds the household during the flood, when the river eats the fields. Soak it before cooking, mortal, else the salt will bite your tongue.

How it was made : Salting and sun-drying were the main methods of preserving fish in ancient Egypt, where the lack of cold required rapid drying. Dried fish, abundant and cheap, was a major protein source for the people, even though some fish were subject to religious taboos in certain nomes.

The contemporary twist : Crumble the desalted and grilled fish over an emmer bread flatbread with a drizzle of oil and fresh coriander: a "Delta toast."

Sources : Douglas J. Brewer, Renée F. Friedman, "Fish and Fishing in Ancient Egypt" (Aris & Phillips) · William J. Darby et al., "Food: The Gift of Osiris"

Isis · Charactorium