Dried and Salted Nile Fish from the Delta
Fillets of river fish salted then dried in the sun and north wind—the most ordinary and essential preserve of the Delta, to be rehydrated and grilled, with a pronounced and deeply umami flavor.
Fillets of river fish salted then dried in the sun and north wind—the most ordinary and essential preserve of the Delta, to be rehydrated and grilled, with a pronounced and deeply umami flavor.
In the marshes of Buto where I hid my son, the river gives fish in abundance. But the sun of Egypt does not forgive: what is not eaten that day must be saved. So the fishermen open the fish, cover it with salt, and offer it to the north wind until it hardens. Thus kept, it feeds the household during the flood, when the river eats the fields. Soak it before cooking, mortal, else the salt will bite your tongue.
- •Nile fish (mullet, tilapia, Nile perch) — several cleaned fish (base)
- •Oasis salt (rock salt) — in abundance (preservation)
Dried and Salted Nile Fish from the Delta
Fillets of river fish salted then dried in the sun and north wind—the most ordinary and essential preserve of the Delta, to be rehydrated and grilled, with a pronounced and deeply umami flavor.
Why this dish? Isis has her great sanctuary at Buto, in the marshes of the Nile Delta, realm of reeds and fishermen—there she concealed Horus. Dried and salted fish was the daily provision there, stored for weeks to last through the flood seasons.
In the marshes of Buto where I hid my son, the river gives fish in abundance. But the sun of Egypt does not forgive: what is not eaten that day must be saved. So the fishermen open the fish, cover it with salt, and offer it to the north wind until it hardens. Thus kept, it feeds the household during the flood, when the river eats the fields. Soak it before cooking, mortal, else the salt will bite your tongue.
Ingredients (period version)
- Nile fish (mullet, tilapia, Nile perch) — several cleaned fish (base)
- Oasis salt (rock salt) — in abundance (preservation)
Ingredients
- Fillets of mullet, tilapia, or sea bass — 4 fillets (base)
- Coarse sea salt — 500 g (to cover) (salting)
- Olive oil and cumin (for cooking) — to taste (finishing)
Method
- Clean and gut the fish, butterfly it to dry quickly.
- Completely cover with salt in a dish and let drain 12 to 24 hours in a cool place.
- Rinse quickly, then dry for 1 to 2 days in a ventilated, dry place (or in the refrigerator on a rack for a safe version).
- Before cooking, soak the fish in fresh water for 1 to 2 hours to desalt, changing the water.
- Pat dry, brush with oil and cumin, then grill a few minutes on each side.
How it was made : Salting and sun-drying were the main methods of preserving fish in ancient Egypt, where the lack of cold required rapid drying. Dried fish, abundant and cheap, was a major protein source for the people, even though some fish were subject to religious taboos in certain nomes.
The contemporary twist : Crumble the desalted and grilled fish over an emmer bread flatbread with a drizzle of oil and fresh coriander: a "Delta toast."
Sources : Douglas J. Brewer, Renée F. Friedman, "Fish and Fishing in Ancient Egypt" (Aris & Phillips) · William J. Darby et al., "Food: The Gift of Osiris"
Isis · Charactorium