Louis Aragon’s menu
Morning Chicory
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The hot morning drink (the coffee substitute that opened the days of the Occupation)

Morning Chicory

DrinkDocumentedfacile5 min
The hot morning drink (the coffee substitute that opened the days of the Occupation)

Morning Chicory

Why this dish? With real coffee almost gone during the Occupation, the French — including Aragon — turned to roasted chicory. This bitter drink warmed the nights of clandestine writing from which the poems of the Resistance were born.

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The hot morning drink (the coffee substitute that opened the days of the Occupation)

A hot drink made from roasted chicory roots, dark and bitter, diluted with a little milk. The emblematic substitute of the dark years, which became a familiar and comforting taste.

Coffee? What a sweet illusion! We drank chicory, black and bitter, and by its light I blackened so many pages in hiding. You brew it strong, add a splash of milk if you have any, and grip the cup between your frozen hands. That bitterness, you see, tasted of stubborn hope.
Louis Aragon
Ingredients
  • Roasted and ground chicory rootsa spoonful (base)
  • Boiling watera bowl (infusion)
  • Milkif available (softener)
How it was made : Chicory was made from the root of the plant, dried then roasted and ground. Cheap and cultivable in France (notably in the North), it massively replaced unavailable coffee during both wars and long remained a familiar taste of French breakfasts.

See also