Wedding fish grilled with garum and herbs
Whole grilled fish, drizzled with garum (fermented fish sauce, the umami of the ancients), olive oil, wine, and fresh herbs. The prestige dish of banquets, salty and deep, which opened the symposion.
Whole grilled fish, drizzled with garum (fermented fish sauce, the umami of the ancients), olive oil, wine, and fresh herbs. The prestige dish of banquets, salty and deep, which opened the symposion.
Daughter of Ocean the world-river and Tethys, I was born of water before the gods who reign today were born. For my wedding to the Cronide, the brightest fish were pulled from the sea, laid on the coals, and splashed with garum, that powerful brine that makes the flesh sing. Drizzle yours with oil and wine, sprinkle it with herbs from the hill, and eat it facing the open sea. Then you will taste what those who descend from the primordial waters taste — I first among them.
- •Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet) — one fine specimen (centerpiece)
- •Garum (fermented fish sauce) — a few dashes (salty umami, the signature)
- •Olive oil — generously (cooking and binder)
- •White wine — a little (flavored deglazing)
- •Fresh oregano and coriander — a few sprigs (herbs)
- •Honey — a drop (balance, common in Greek cuisine)
Wedding fish grilled with garum and herbs
Whole grilled fish, drizzled with garum (fermented fish sauce, the umami of the ancients), olive oil, wine, and fresh herbs. The prestige dish of banquets, salty and deep, which opened the symposion.
Why this dish? To celebrate the wedding of Metis and Zeus, first marriage of the king of gods, imagine the banquet of the Olympians. Fish was the sought-after festive dish of the Greeks (the opson par excellence), and Metis, daughter of Ocean, is intimately linked to waters: dedicating a sea fish to her brings the Oceanid back to her source.
Daughter of Ocean the world-river and Tethys, I was born of water before the gods who reign today were born. For my wedding to the Cronide, the brightest fish were pulled from the sea, laid on the coals, and splashed with garum, that powerful brine that makes the flesh sing. Drizzle yours with oil and wine, sprinkle it with herbs from the hill, and eat it facing the open sea. Then you will taste what those who descend from the primordial waters taste — I first among them.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet) — one fine specimen (centerpiece)
- Garum (fermented fish sauce) — a few dashes (salty umami, the signature)
- Olive oil — generously (cooking and binder)
- White wine — a little (flavored deglazing)
- Fresh oregano and coriander — a few sprigs (herbs)
- Honey — a drop (balance, common in Greek cuisine)
Ingredients
- Whole sea bream or sea bass, gutted — 1 (approx. 600 g) (centerpiece)
- Fish sauce (nuoc-mam or colatura di alici, garum substitute) — 2 tsp (salty umami)
- Olive oil — 4 tbsp (cooking)
- Dry white wine — 50 ml (sauce)
- Dried oregano + fresh coriander — 1 tsp + a few sprigs (herbs)
- Honey — 1/2 tsp (balance)
Method
- Preheat the grill or oven to 220°C.
- Score the fish, stuff with oregano, and drizzle a little oil inside.
- Mix fish sauce, remaining oil, wine, and honey to make a marinade.
- Brush the fish and let rest 15 minutes.
- Grill 6-8 minutes per side (or 20 min in the oven), basting with marinade, until the flesh flakes.
- Sprinkle with fresh coriander and serve immediately with maza or bread.
How it was made : Fish (opson) was the coveted dish of the Greeks, a sign of refinement and celebration, sometimes more expensive than meat. Garum (garum for Romans), fermented fish brine, added salty umami to countless dishes — it was the king condiment of the ancient Mediterranean. Fish was grilled or braised with oil, wine, honey, and herbs, as sweet-sour and salty-sweet pairings were prized.
The contemporary twist : Serve on a bed of edible seaweed with a lemon wedge, 'return to the Ocean' style — a plate homage to Metis the Oceanid.
Sources : Archestratus of Gela, Hedypatheia (Life of Luxury), gastronomic poem, 4th c. BC · Athenaeus of Naucratis, The Deipnosophists, Books VII-VIII (on fish) · Sally Grainger, The Story of Garum (2021)
Metis · Charactorium
