flipChaach (Spiced Desert Buttermilk)
Chaach (Spiced Desert Buttermilk)
Why this dish? Buttermilk, a byproduct of churning butter for Krishna, quenched the thirst of one who walked from temple to temple under the Rajput sun. A drink throughout Rajasthan, it accompanied every thali and refreshed pilgrims on the roads to Vrindavan and Dwarka.
Churned buttermilk, thinned with water, seasoned with roasted cumin, ginger, coriander leaves and a pinch of salt. Light, tangy and refreshing, perfect against the heat.
When the desert sun burned me on the road to Vrindavan, friend, I needed nothing else. I would churn the previous day's curd with cool well water, crush in a few coriander leaves, cumin passed over the embers, and a grain of salt. It is served in a copper cup, drunk in one draught—and the body revives to sing the name of Hari again.
- •Curd / yogurt (dahi) — one bowl (fermented base)
- •Fresh well water — twice as much (dilution)
- •Roasted cumin — a pinch (spice)
- •Fresh ginger — a small piece (aromatic)
- •Fresh coriander — a few leaves (freshness)
- •Rock salt (kala namak) — to taste (seasoning)
Chaach (Spiced Desert Buttermilk)
Churned buttermilk, thinned with water, seasoned with roasted cumin, ginger, coriander leaves and a pinch of salt. Light, tangy and refreshing, perfect against the heat.
Why this dish? Buttermilk, a byproduct of churning butter for Krishna, quenched the thirst of one who walked from temple to temple under the Rajput sun. A drink throughout Rajasthan, it accompanied every thali and refreshed pilgrims on the roads to Vrindavan and Dwarka.
When the desert sun burned me on the road to Vrindavan, friend, I needed nothing else. I would churn the previous day's curd with cool well water, crush in a few coriander leaves, cumin passed over the embers, and a grain of salt. It is served in a copper cup, drunk in one draught—and the body revives to sing the name of Hari again.
Ingredients (period version)
- Curd / yogurt (dahi) — one bowl (fermented base)
- Fresh well water — twice as much (dilution)
- Roasted cumin — a pinch (spice)
- Fresh ginger — a small piece (aromatic)
- Fresh coriander — a few leaves (freshness)
- Rock salt (kala namak) — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Plain yogurt — 250 g (fermented base)
- Cold water — 500 ml (dilution)
- Ground roasted cumin — ½ tsp (spice)
- Grated ginger — ½ tsp (aromatic)
- Chopped fresh coriander — 1 tbsp (freshness)
- Black salt (kala namak) or fine salt — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Whisk yogurt with cold water until smooth and frothy.
- Dry-roast cumin then coarsely grind.
- Add cumin, ginger, salt and coriander to the buttermilk, mix.
- Serve well chilled in a metal cup.
How it was made : Chaach is the child of churning: once the butter was removed, the remaining liquid was never wasted. Rich in water and ferments, it was the hydrating drink of the desert before any refrigeration, also aiding digestion of ghee-heavy meals. Black salt, sulfurous, gave it its characteristic taste.
The contemporary twist : Serve it iced with a mint leaf and a squeeze of lime, as a 'salted lassi' from a juice bar.
Sources : K.T. Achaya, Indian Food: A Historical Companion, Oxford University Press, 1994
Mirabai · Charactorium
